>     Here a  few photos of the first rear beam engine mount, finished > and
>     ready to ship.  Since it was the first,  we had a lot to learn. > It
>     did not go perfectly but I am pleased to say that we encountered > no
>     fatal errors and we were able to respond with repairs and

adjustments

>     to get to  the final product.   I absolutely love this engine > mount.
>     It is very strong,  light,and  out of the way.  Look at the room
>     around the engine for exhaust and intake and cooling.  This engine
>     mount is designed around the concept of the belly rad with the

intake

>     plenum above it.
>
>     Of the three photos, I like the last one particularly.    Just > bolt
>     on  your engine -- no problems of any kind.   Congratulations to

Paul

>     for such a beautiful design.   Jerry
>
>     P.S:  bolting the S-beam in place is a bitch currently.  I am > making
>     a special tool to make it easier.   Once the current crop of > S-beams
>     is expended a new "EASY INSTALL"  version will take their place. > If
>     you want roll your own S-Beam engine mount  I have 10 beams that I
>     will sell way below cost, $25.00 ea.  They are drilled for the > Barry
>     mount and have the aluminum spacer. Drilling to fit your pan > flange
>     is your problem is all you got to do.
>
>     -------------------------------------------------
>
>     I think Jerry is exaggerating the difficulties here.
>
>     The beam can be bolted on the engine while the engine
>     is up side down.
>
>     Then turn the engine right side up and bolt the beam the
>     rest of the motor mount.
>
>     That should be a piece of cake.
>
>     The 6 mm hex socket screws can be placed in the holes in the S > beam
>     and stay there by gravity. Put two aligning 6 mm studs in two
>     of the 6 mm taped holes in the end housing to align the beam when
>     it is lowered.
>
>     You can see the holes and the screws no problem.
>
>     Lower the beam to about 1/8 inch above the end housing
>     with shims and and start the hex socket screws one at
>     a time.  A hex socket screw has six sides. Six into 360 is 60
>     degrees the off set hex wrench will turn 120 degrees so you have a
>     bunch of chances to get it started. When all the hex socket screws

are

>     started remove the 1/8th inch shims and tighten the screws.
>
>     Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
>
>
> Is there any reason a square/rectangular "boxed" steel tube would not
> work as well/better than a bent beam?  Id guess it would be a bit
> stronger/stiffer (still thinking of using the beam as an attach point
> for the front wheel strut).  Downside- longer attach bolts to the
> engine/pan.
>
> MICHAEL D PARKER
>
> -------------------------------------------
> I assume you are talking about the front S beam. That is precisely how
> they do the nose gear strut on the Questair Venture. The current
> beam will work fine as the inertia loads are concentrated under the

engine

> and the engine is the main mass at the front of the airplane.
> The light weight cowl and fuse go along for the ride.
>
> However you need to stabilize the motor mount laterally at the rear of
> the engine with a small horizontal ball jointed strut other wise the

gyro

> prop torque
> reaction "steers" the nose gear by deflectiong the main rubber > bushings.
> The
> Questair designer did not do that and it is a bit squirrelly during > the
> ground
> taxi, takeoff and landing.
>
> Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

Reading the above it, it seems to me that we should be able to do

something

similar with the RV9-A nose gear support structure. That would get rid of
that spider web of tubing around the lower middle of the firewall, provide
lots of extra space, probably be a whole lot lighter, and much easier to
fabricate. What do you think?

Doc Custer
Retired Software Engineer and sometime Audiologist

------------------------------------------
I agree.
--------------------------------------------

On second thought where do you put the cooling rad?
I guess you could put it on the right (cool) side of the engine.

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

Has anyone, or IS anyone building these type mounts for an RV-7? (Not an
"A")?
I'm trying to not re-invent all the wheels, just finish before I can't fly
anymore.
Thomas Phy

Nothing flying yet. Doc is building a 9.
I also think the fire wall hard points are all pretty much the
same from A to non A.

I think the RV7, 8, and 9, are all pretty much similar firewall forward.
I have stuff for the 8 and 9. Minor variations.

Does this look familiar?

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

I am building an RV9-A. Presently working on the fuselage - fitting the
wings. Also working on 13B engine parts.

The RV6s, 7s and 9s all share the same firewall, including the A models (I
think, as I have not seen the plans for a tail wheel aircraft). My 9-A
firewall has a part number indicating it is for a 6 model. Many of the parts
for the 9-A have 6 and 7 part numbers.

The 9 and 9-A have very different engine mounts. The 9s have the gear legs
positioned aft of the firewall, I think - not sure; I looked at a 7 tail
wheel aircraft that flew in at Copperstate, but the pix didn't turn out. (As
a result I bought a Panasonic FZ-50.) The 9-As have the main gear leg
supports attached to the firewall. The 9-As have that spider web of tubing
forward of the firewall to support the nose gear strut. And of course the 9s
have no provision for a nose wheel. My guess is that the 9s and 7s share a
good deal of design and parts, both tail wheel and nose wheel models.

I am in the process of building a jig to make 13B engine mounts that will
fit the A model 6s, 7s, and 9s.

My long term goal is to provide a firewall forward package for the RV6-A,
7-A and 9-A aircraft. I would like to include the tail wheel versions, but
have no source of information. If you could provide that information, we
could collaborate.

Thomas, if you would like to collaborate with Paul and me, I would be
willing to modify the jig and build an engine mount to Paul's design, should
he be willing to do that.

As part of the program, I intend to offer a cowling per Paul's design. Let
me know what you decide.

Doc Custer
Retired Software Engineer and sometime Audiologist

Sure Doc. We need a good firewall forward package.

Hey how about a retractable nose gear if we mount it on
the Schertz beam? :) There is an outfit here in SZP making
replacement Questair nose struts NC milled out of billet.

Paul Lamar

You are kidding, right? I would love a retractable nose gear, but ...

Doc Custer
Retired Software Engineer and sometime Audiologist


I'll have to see if I can fit it in. Keep reading there are
more messages with pictures on this subject.