> One of the problems with the 13b water pump (cut down or not) is that
> the intake and outflow from the pump do not head in a 'helpful' >
directions to route coolant hoses if the radiator is mounted beneath
the > engine. I am not very satisfied with the solution I came up
with the
> first time around, so I am pondering some rework while I reinstall
the > engine next weekend. > > First thought is to weld a 180 bend
onto the pump as shown in the > figure. This makes it relatively
straight forward to add some hose +
a > 90 degree bend to get to one side of the radiator. But it does
nothing > to help getting from the goofy 45-degree pump port to the
other side
of > the radiator.
> > Anyone have a better idea how best to lay this out?
> > Mark Supinski
> > Here is what I have come up with but it requires a two pass rad.
> > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
What is a two pass rad?
Doc Custer
Retired Software Engineer and sometime Audiologist
OK that is when the water goes down one side and comes
back the other. Sometimes called a Sciroco type.
Makes plumbing a lot easier.
--
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Hi Paul,
Who is the source for the radiator pictured in Scirrocco_Rad.jpg?
Is there a source for one as pictured in your Cad drawing with the
coolant filler on the same end?
Thanks,
K11
Slow going for my GlaStar
Summit Racing sells two pass rads. Ed Klepies can make one
for you out of just about any core.
Edward Klepeis <techwelding@comcast.net>
I like all aluminum Howe racing radiators for about $200.
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Paul,
I'm planning to use a rad from C & R Racing (
http://www.crracing.com/);
often available for around $200 as new surplus from the Nascar
builders. No filler cap on rad, two coolant lines and a vent port.
Also, Canton Racing (
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com) has nice
expansion tanks.
The RX-7 racing crowd likes Koyo radiators
(
http://www.koyo-radiator.com/index.html), but they are OEM
configurations only. Their catalogs have no dimensioned drawings.
Aubrey Thompson
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