Happy to test-fit the prototype slide throttles you've whipped up, but
suspect I won't be able to run the engine with it.  My intake manifold
is welded to my existing slide throttle front plate & the odds of the
holes etc lining up are pretty much nil I would guess.

Mark Supinski

No problem Mark. Just cut those tubes off with a hack saw and have
them tig welded to Docs slide throttle. A bit shorter length won't
hurt. The 2 inch hole positions should be near perfect.
Another trick would be convert your plate to a flange (or two flanges)
and bolt it (them) to Docs plate with flat head screws.
I like that idea even better as no tig welding will be required.

With you two guys working together things will happen much faster.
Fortunately you are not that far apart.

Paul Lamar

Doc,
   A while back we discussed making the slide throttle plates egg
shaped for better low RPM control. What is the shape of your version?
Thanks,
Randy

Egg shaped. See attached pix.

Doc Custer
Retired Software Engineer and sometime Audiologist

Looks great Doc.

Now I want to warn you guys this may or
may not help the idle. Bad idle on a p-port is caused
by exhaust gas contaminating the intake charge. The carb version,
with long runners, is the worst. Having the slide throttle close
to the rotor housings helps.

Both NSU in the very early days and Suzuki
were aware of this phenomena. Both had butterfly valves close
to the rotor housing. It was also implemented by
Everette Hatch. I suspect, although I don't have any data,
a multiple spark discharge ignition may help the idle.

What this type of slide throttle will do is make the
throttle setting less sensitive so a given throttle cable
movement will make less of a change in RPM. Particularly
in the lower throttle opening ranges.

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

The Rotary Engine NewsLetter. Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site. http://www.rotaryeng.net
Copyright 1998-2006 All world wide rights reserved.