Paul,
I'm just starting the disassembly / inspection of my 20B for the purpose
of an aircraft conversion. The thing that seems to be worrying me the
most is the water pump. That thing is huge, or at least it sticks up in
the air a mile over the top of the engine block. And....the pump is
cast iron in an aluminum housing....very heavy!! Is there some way
to modify, or preferably another pump that will mount in its place that
will solve these issues? This thing will NEVER go inside the engine
cowl?
Thanks again!!
Don Mitchell
No problem. Not to worry.
I'll give you a step by step on how to cut it down with pictures. I
did one for Bulent and his is working and cooling fine. Later today.
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Don,
If I can jump in here with a comment or two. Yes the 20B wp is big and
heavy. I'm in the process of converting my 20B to accept the much
lighter Renesis front cover and wp, saving 6# and get the better CAS in
the process. There is one bolt that will have to be drilled &
tapped, but that's the only mod that I could see. If you don't want to
change the entire front cover, you can cut the wp section from
the Renesis front cover and just use the wp section on the 20B. Since I
wanted the newer style crank mounted CAS, I will be using the entire
Renesis cover. The coolant inlet/outlet on the Renesis is better
suited for a/c purposes.
Mark S.
Lancair ES - N/A 20B
Not so fast guys. The 20B impeller is a much better design
than the RX8 impeller. The RX8 impeller is the same as the
third gen. I think Mazda re-designed it for low average power
street car use to cut the WP power and improve the BSFC
slightly. It seems to work on Tracy's RX8 2 rotor engine.
Before I did something like this I would install a CHT
sensor near the lower spark plug on the front rotor housing
(tractor 20B powered airplane). Cooling wise the front end
housing is the least well cooled. Particularly on the 20B.
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
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