Subject: Rotor "Weight Code" Stamp
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 4/9/2007, 11:47 AM
To: AARotary Engine


     >>
     >>      > Hi Paul,
     >>      > I'm enjoying following along with your current threads!!
     >>      > Hope you don't mind me chiming in here again to ask another
     >> newbie
     >>      > question:
     >>      >
     >>      > I've been slowly acquiring S5 NT (9.7 : 1) rotors for my
    20B NA
     >>     project
     >>      > (much cheaper that RX8 rotors).  I had 2, and just
    received the
     >>     3rd one
     >>      > today.  I've been trying to be careful to make sure I get
     >> rotors with
     >>      > matching weight code stamps, but the one I got today is
     >>     different.  Can
     >>      > you help here?  I hope you don't mind me including
    pictures!!  I
     >>     tried
     >>      > to make the files small.  The first 2 pics are the rotors I
     >>     already had,
     >>      > and they show a "C" along side another weird symbol
    (kinda looks
     >>     like
     >>      > a 7).
     >>      >
     >>      > The next pic is the rotor I got today.  It shows a "C" along
     >> side an
     >>      > "E" :
     >>      > My question is.......Is it OK to use all these rotors
     >> together?  Are
     >>      > these all S5 (9.7 : 1) rotors?  Is this last rotor a
    weight code
     >>     "C" or
     >>      > "E" ?  What's the other symbol of Letter mean?
     >>      >
     >>      > Thanks again for all your help and knowledge!!
     >>      > Don
     >>      >
     >>      > From what I gather you can't mix and match weight codes.
     >>      > I think you need to have it balanced by an experienced
     >>      > rotary engine balancer. The rotors must be balanced
     >>      > about their center point and matched with all the other
    rotors
     >>      > for weight and then the counter weights adjusted
     >>      > for the exact weight of the rotors. There is a guy here in
     >>      > So Cal that does it.
     >>      >
     >>      > Rotor weight codes.
     >>      > The only thing I can find is this.
     >>      > http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?p=1309602#post1309602-
     >>      >
     >>      > I'll forward this to Jim Mederer. Hopefully he will have time
     >>      > to help as he gets the really hard questions :)
     >>      >
     >>      > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
     >>
     >>
     >>     Hi Don;
     >>
     >>     These all appear to "C" weight rotors.  For a 2-rotor, letter
     >> codes must
     >>     be adjacent,
     >>     e.g. B/C, D/E, C/D are OK  (A/C, B/D are NOT)
     >>     The rotors themselves are balanced about their centers at the
     >> factory.
     >>     I am not sure what the balance requirements are for a 3-rotor.
     >>     I believe the backwards "E" and other characters are Japanese -
     >> don't
     >>     know what they mean.
     >>     Theoretically, the S5 rotors weigh the same as the 20B rotors,
     >> and you
     >>     "should"?
     >>     be able to use the 20B front and rear counterweight without
     >> rebalancing.
     >>
     >>     I posted some rotor/balance info a few weeks ago.
     >>     The S5 rotor faces are machined, the S4 have a rough cast
     >> appearance.
     >>     You could also measure the depth of the combustion area.
     >>     See attached file
     >>     -> might be worth adding to the website.   I don't have any
    turbo
     >> stuff.
     >>     A couple of housing comparisons might be useful as well,
    I'll see
     >> what I
     >>     can scare up...
     >>
     >>     When mixing and matching parts for higher than stock rpm, a
    custom
     >>     balance is not a bad idea.
     >>
     >>     Cheers
     >>     Cary
     >>
     >>
     >> Thanks Cary,
     >> This is what I have:
     >>
     >> All are machined faces.
     >> Thanks,
     >> Don
     > Hi Don;
     > The S5 NA rotors are at a bit of a premium for racing and higher
     > activities :)
     > Worth a quick depth check on the rotor recesses to ensure they
    are all
     > the same.
     > Personally, I would run the stock 9.0? 20b rotors in NA mode for the
     > 5-8% HP loss.
     > If you have the room under the cowl - you could re-add a turbo later.
     > Just curious, what is your project?
     > (Sorry if I've missed it, I don't read all the emails)
     >
     > Cheers
     > Cary

    Hi Don;
    Also meant to ask if you have removed and replaced the stock 20B exhaust
    sleeve inserts.
    I have heard they are quite restrictive and many people replace them
    with 13b turbo inserts.
    Although removing them is a good way to break taps...
    Cheers
    Cary

Don,
I removed the stock 20B exhaust inserts from my engine.  Not a job for
the faint of heart!  The best way I found was to grind away the material
from inside the port until you can see the roll pin, then drive them
through with a punch.  It ruins the inserts, but I didn't have any
future use for them anyway.

Mark S.

If your off next Sunday Don, Allen and anybody else in the
neighborhood and you don't mind driving to Lockhart I will be there
10:00 or 11:00 AM visiting Mark. We can have a mini Rotary Engine in
Aircraft Meeting and How to cool Your Wankel book signing at Mark's
hangar.

Paul Lamar

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