Subject: S beam Simple rear mount.
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 7/10/2007, 2:06 PM
To: AARotary Engine


The hot side  stock S-Beam from beam center to Barry center is 14.5
inches.    Did you want to shorten it for some reason?   I am going
to do a trial set up, to make sure the fixture is not in way of the
lower diagonal on the cool side.     If it is not possible, I will
let you know what is. It is hard to make a fixture for a product that
changes dimensions in every iteration. :)   Jerry

OK just move it out to 14.5" from 13.28"

I think you ought to make this variable as airplanes are  different  widths.
You have to change the cool side length for side mounted rads anyway.

Have you made up a bunch of s-beams with the holes in the webs?
The hole positions relative to the bushing aluminum support  plates  and loads
is critical. In other words can I put the holes anywhere I want?

While I have you on the line what do you think of moving the rear   rubber
bushing down near the bottom of the oil pan? I have an idea that   could simplify
the entire mount. This part would become higher or longer.

Do you have a band saw?
-- 
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

Yes,  I have a band saw.   Moving the bracket down seems no problem
but I  would like to see a drawing. showing how it works with the
rear beam.   Sorry, but my minimum  length Sbeam cool or hot side is
12 inches from the beam center to the B.M center.  That is the limit
for the fixture.    Jerry

This only works on nose gear airplanes. The rear beam is gone.
A 1.5 inch dia. .065 wall tube is welded to the nose gear leg socket.
What do you think?


You will have to change your jig as many people will want side rads
in the future I suspect and the rubber bushing on that side needs to
be sucked in. So suck it up :)
-- 
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

I prefer the rear beam in every case.  The only engine mount I have
ever worked on that the vertical tube would work on is this RV7A.
As far as changing the fixture to accommodate side rads,  I don't
think so. It would require starting over from scratch.    So far only
one person, Dale Harvey  has opted for the side rad.    Have you
tried to see if there is room with the 12 inch engine mount?    Jerry

The starter already gets in the duct.
It will be easy to adapt to your current jig. Hold on I am working on a fix.
All of Vans "A" airplanes have the same sort of nose gear except the 10
so the simple rear mount will work on most. The 1.5 inch  tube can be tilted forward.

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

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