>> The hot side  stock S-Beam from beam center to Barry center is 14.5
   >> inches.    Did you want to shorten it for some reason?   I am going
   >> to do a trial set up, to make sure the fixture is not in way of the
   >> lower diagonal on the cool side.     If it is not possible, I will
   >> let you know what is. It is hard to make a fixture for a product that
   >> changes dimensions in every iteration. :)   Jerry
   >>
   >> OK just move it out to 14.5" from 13.28"
   >>
   >> I think you ought to make this variable as airplanes are
   >> different  widths.
   >> You have to change the cool side length for side mounted rads anyway.
   >>
   >> Have you made up a bunch of s-beams with the holes in the webs?
   >> The hole positions relative to the bushing aluminum support
   >> plates  and loads
   >> is critical. In other words can I put the holes anywhere I want?
   >>
   >> While I have you on the line what do you think of moving the rear
   >> rubber
   >> bushing down near the bottom of the oil pan? I have an idea that
   >> could simplify
   >> the entire mount. This part would become higher or longer.
   >>
   >> Do you have a band saw?
   >> --
   >> Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
   >
   > Yes,  I have a band saw.   Moving the bracket down seems no problem
   > but I  would like to see a drawing. showing how it works with the
   > rear beam.   Sorry, but my minimum  length Sbeam cool or hot side is
   > 12 inches from the beam center to the B.M center.  That is the limit
   > for the fixture.    Jerry
   >
   > This only works on nose gear airplanes. The rear beam is gone.
   > A 1.5 inch dia. .065 wall tube is welded to the nose gear leg socket.
   > What do you think?
   >
   >
   > You will have to change your jig as many people will want side rads
   > in the future I suspect and the rubber bushing on that side needs to
   > be sucked in. So suck it up :)
   > --
   > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

   I prefer the rear beam in every case.  The only engine mount I have
   ever worked on that the vertical tube would work on is this RV7A.
   As far as changing the fixture to accommodate side rads,  I don't
   think so. It would require starting over from scratch.    So far only
   one person, Dale Harvey  has opted for the side rad.    Have you
   tried to see if there is room with the 12 inch engine mount?    Jerry

   The starter already gets in the duct.
   It will be easy to adapt to your current jig. Hold on I am working on a fix.
   All of Vans "A" airplanes have the same sort of nose gear except the 10
   so the simple rear mount will work on most. The 1.5 inch  tube can be tilted forward.
   Paul Lamar

   Hi Paul, first of all thanks for your help with my mount. I guess I left you out
   of the loop when I sent Jerry the measurements he needed for the mount. I changed
   my mine on cowls and kind of balled up the process. I hope this side radiator
   will work with the S-beam.
   Dale Harvey

We will get it working. We will just have to beat up on Jerry a little bit :)

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.


Jerry, will this work? Off set the center line two inches to the left.
What are the dimensions of the lift table? I assumed 18" by 24".
-- -------------------------------------------------------------

Ops forgot to mention a few things. When doing the simple rear mount for nose
gear airplanes. Tack weld a .065" thick 1.5" by 1" plate on the front end of a shortened
temporary rear beam. To this plate weld the side diagonals. cut it off the temporary
rear beam when done welding. Remove the temporary rear beam. That keeps the fitting
at those joints to a minimum. BTW A big advantage of the rear beam I have no doubt.

Add the lower diagonals from the rubber bushing cups to the landing gear socket AFTER
everything else is welded as they will interfere with the lift table.

I think this will work.

I reordered the attachements from proplem to fix.

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

I must have missed something. Can I blame the hangar? :)

Attached is a 3D of the rear of the engine, a RV9A nose strut support &
motor mount. What is wrong with an adjustable rear strut supported by the
nose gear support? The red tube supporting the rear of the engine is a
stand-in for all the adjustable thingies and attachments.

Doc Custer
Retired Software Engineer and sometime Audiologist

I would take it to the lower end of the nose gear socket. Much better angle.
As you have it shown there is a wedging action on the top of the
nose gear socket.

It will work great if done that way. The devil of course is in the
details. Are you using the rubber rods ends.