Subject: leaking oil - problem found
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 10/1/2007, 11:43 AM
To: AARotary Engine



snip
  See the video for more details.

The video is quite impressive. Anyone have thoughts on this before I go
out tomorrow & buy some inserts?

Mark Rocky Mtn High

Timeserts or heli coils are the only correct way to fix this.
Heli coils are the easiest to get, but you have to be careful installing
them. Installed correctly, they are fine for this application. There are
millions upon millions of aluminum aircraft parts flying around with heli
coils in them, as they are used in many new aircraft parts to prevent this
problem to start with.
The keenserts require a larger tap and will probably not fit due to is a
limited amount of material in the bolt bosses in the front covers of the
engine.
I would stay away from anything other than these inserts types for any
thread repairs that you want to trust.
Larry

The URL for Time Serts is www.timesert.com <http://www.timesert.com> I
found out about these inserts when working for Kawasaki. Time Serts were
the only thread repair insert that they approved. A bit harder to get
than helicoils, but once you have used them once you will never want to
use a heli-coil again. I don't work for these guys, the reason I'm such
a strong supporter is the number of threads I have repaired using them.
I still have several lengths of 6 x 1.0 metric Time Serts in my tool box
from 20 years ago. Please take the time to look at the web site it
explains well the difference that make these inserts best. The
absolutely best thing I can say about these things is that on several of
the race bikes we built, that we knew would be apart regularly, we Time
Serted the bolt holes in several of the critical areas to be sure they
wouldn't fail before we even put the engines together!
Bill Jepson

Bill, I would agree with you. From what I have seen the 'time-serts'
seem to be the best solution.
It is a solid ferrule, not an individual thread wire. This makes the
most sense.
The outside thread pitch matches the pitch of the repaired thread. The
flange on top prevents the repaired thread from sinking into the bore or
coming out. A little lock tight added would make that one just like a
new thread and very robust.

Thanks for pointing that one out.

Rolf Pfeiffer



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