There is one problem in this application Bill. there is not
enough meat
around the hole for an insert. There is only 16 MM of meat beyond
the edge
of the hole. That is marginal for an insert IMHO.
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Paul,
16mm is more that enough material for a insert. We are talking
about the
bottom rail for the oil pan correct? there is enough material for a
Heli-coil, and since the Timesert will work with the same size tap it
will work also. I understand what you mean, as the much larger
Keenserts
wouldn't fit. The TimeSert will fit no problem. We would put the 6mm
Time Serts into the cam shaft cap housings which weren't wider
than 10mm
wide. They worked great. The bottom pan bolts are 6mm right? I'll get
one from my collection this weekend and send it to you, good thing to
see it in the metal so to speak.
Bill Jepson
For some strange reason I cannot access that timesert web site so
I have
no dimensions.
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Paul, The data from the Time Sert site for the 6mm x 1.0 is
counter bore
dia is .319 in. [8.1 mm](there is a small flange at the top of
the Time
Sert
insert)
depth of the counter bore is only .075 in. The tap drill for the tap
used is
.249 in. and the major diameter of the tap is only .290 in. All
the Time
Sert
kits come with a drill, a counterbore tool, a tap, and a insert
driver.
The last
is really just a common roll tap for the size. When the flange
bottoms out
the roll tap forms the last 1-1/2 threads and swages the insert in.
The url again is www.timesert.com <http://www.timesert.com/>
<http://www.timesert.com/>
Bill Jepson
I think a counter bore would be a problem for Mark. To install a heli
coil he
would not have to remove the engine. I think the heli coil tap
just goes
into
the stripped out 6 mm hole. Also there is the issue of the cost
of the kit.
What does a timsert kit cost?
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
If he didn't want to remove the pan yes. I wouldn't do any important
repair without removing the pan. Just my preference. Don't know the
current pricing on the kits. They were less than $100 with several
different sizes. If it is a problem I could probably loan the kit
if he
can remove the pan, if everything is still in the tool box that is.
Bill jepson
He might be able to get the pan off with the engine still in the
airplane
as he has a unique schertz beam set up.
-- Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Paul, yes that is the setup that Jerry didn't want to stay with
for some
reason. Looks like a good setup to me. I won't be at my shop
until this
week end, but if he hasn't decided by then I'll see what I still
have. I
strongly believe this to be the best thread repair available.
Recently
they have been selected by GM as the only approved thread repair
for the
aluminum engines. They will be around for a while!
Bill Jepson
I heard that. The problem is that s-beam slot did not clear the
damper bolts. The solution was no fun. Because of strength issues we
could not grind S-beam flange to clear unless we added a doubler
along the edge. I think removing a pan is a rare experience but if
you have to then there is no choice but to support the engine with a
hoist, remove the s-beam and then pull the pan. Sounds like a
bigger deal than it is. I can do it in 15 minutes. Just lift the
engine enough (1/16 inch) to pull the S-beam (two bolts) and don't
forget to pull the bolts on strut or rear beam bracket also. I am
making a note to myself to Timesert the pan bolts before assembly of
my engine. Jerry
P.S. The new, fully boxed s-beam is much stronger and its location
being lower and further back is ideal for building the engine mount.
It is a winner in every way.
Good idea Jerry. I had not thought of pulling the S-beam. Flat rate
mechanics are always coming up with stuff like that.
Paul Lamar
I did not mention it but of course the pan bolts that hold the S beam
will have to be removed as well. These are 6mm socket heads and the
wrench is a 5mm hex key. Jerry
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