>> With regards to a dyno for testing engines from ~ 40 hp to
    perhaps as
     >> much as 150 hp, would anybody have some experience and/or advise
    which
     >> make and type of dyno is advisable. Pros and cons of various
    systems?
     >>
     >> Also, does someone have pre-owned equipment that is for sale?
     >>
     >> Any help, hints or advise is much appreciated.
     >>
     >> Regards
     >> Rolf
     >>
     >> Water pump dyno's are most popular but they require a lot of cold
     >> water. Mazdatrix has an 800 gallon tank as I recall. When the water
     >> gets hot you must let it cool off.
     >>
     >> The cheapest is a prop load dyno.
     >>
     >> --
     >> Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
     >
     > Rolf,
     > Those water dyno's are good, but not terribly cheap, as Paul says
    they heat
     > up. From what I've seen they require some significant cooling for
    sustained
     > use. A lot of water and a cooling tower.
     > If you find anything ( that's both cheap and easy to build)
    please advise
     > the group. I am looking for something myself and so far it's
    Paul's trailer
     > Dyno that meets that criteria.
     > George ( down under)
     >
     >
     > Not mine. I just copied Everett Hatch.
     >
     > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.


    Paul,

    I have been toying with the idea of using the RX-4 torque converter as a
    load for dynoing the engine. The movable impeller would be connected
    to the
    engine side and the toroid housing with the torque arm attached
    mounted so
    it could rotate slightly. Introducing liquid into the housing faster
    then it
    could drain out would increase the load. Don't know how linear the unit
    would be though. Having it go from slipping to complete lock-up
    instantly
    would be no good obviously. Perhaps I could use a less viscous liquid
    through it.


    Doug in Japan

    250 HP is a lot of heat to put into that torque converter Doug.
    The red line on that old engine was probably 6500 RPM as well.

    I am not saying it won't work.

    Paul Lamar


    The lock up is generally actuated by an electric signal to a valve
    in the trans so all you need to do is cut the wire.  You still need
    to disipate an awful lot of heat from the converter.

    Joel

I think that one was built prior to lock up torque converters Joel.
That dates from the early 70's as I recall.

Paul Lamar

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