To All Rotorheads,
I just want to post a progress report and
ask one question; first,
the progress report. Everything is progressing,
it just doesn't happen fast enough. Modifying
an automotive engine for
aircraft use is extremely time consuming. I
have been at this since June '07, almost six
month's and I'm still not
finished (10-14 hour day's, just about seven
day's per week).
The engine does look good though; the
cast-iron part's are painted,
the aluminum part's are polished (satin
finish),
and even the PSRU has been lightened and
polished. I also did some
really light intake porting. I have my motor-
mount's ready for welding, the coil's are
mounted, and I'm presently
working on the mounting bracket for an RX-8
sensor. The bracket was not difficult to design
or fabricate and for me
the weight saving's was worth it. Only two
pound's, but a little here and a little there
and before you know it you
have lost ten pound's.My ECU is back from
Tracy and has been up-dated as well as
re-programed for the RX-8 sensor
and coil's. Next, the intake and exhaust
system's and it should be ready to run;
hopefully by the end of February
'08.
Now the question: does anyone know the
exact radial off the e-shaft
that the RX-8 sensor sit's. It can be in
degree's, minute's, second's or in hour's,
minute's, second's. I can
work with either one. Starting point, of
course,
would be at the top ("0" degree's or 12
O'clock). Hopefully, one of you
can provide this information. Thank's!
Frank R. Clementi
I assume you are installing the RX8 sensor on
the 13B Frank.
There is nothing in the RX8 manual about the
position of this
sensor. Mazda assumes you are using an RX8
E-shaft, computer and pulley
hub. As I recall Mark Steitle installed one on
his 3 rotor.
It looks like it was bolted to a stock 3 rotor
hub using the stock
hole position, spacers and a stock RX8 trigger
wheel.
As I recall Mark's original custom pick up
bracket was steel and
apparently
the pick up did not like steel. Or perhaps it
was the other way around.
What say you Mark?
Here is an old message.
01/23/2004 08:33 PM
Bulent Aliev wrote:
> >
> > Hi Paul,
> > The main pulley diameter on the Cosmo is
128mm about 5". The
trigger wheel
> > should be about 135mm I guess?
> > I just mailed you the RX-8 one Priority
USPS.
> > --
> >
> > Bulent
I got the RX8 trigger wheel Bulent. Thanks. The
good news is it fits
the 2nd gen E-shaft flange weird bolt pattern.
I am not yet sure
about the
timing but Tracy could handle that in software.
Paul Lamar
Frank,
I took reference for the location of the CAS from a
Renesis engine. The
easy way would be to adapt a Renesis front cover.
You could save an
extra pound or two with the Renesis water pump
(assuming you have a cast
iron water pump). If you get it close, you can
adjust the timing with
the EC-2.
In order to get the timing wheel, I had to buy an
entire Renesis front
hub. You might be able to find just the timing
wheel used. The Renesis
hub won't fit on the old engines and the bolt holes
don't match the RX-7
hub, so you'll have to re-drilled the timing wheel
holes. That should
be done in a lathe. As I recall, there is a
diamond-shaped mark on the
timing wheel that points to 12 o'clock when at TDC,
but check &
verify this before drilling.
Keep in mind that the gap between the CAS sensor and
the timing
wheel needs to be about .020". Wider than that and
the signal
gets scrambled and the engine mis-fires at higher
rpm. Also, make sure
the sensor is centered on the timing wheel and don't
make the bracket
out of ferrous material as this will also cause the
signal to
get corrupted.
My recommendation would be to either adapt the
Renesis front cover to
your engine or use the original CAS.
Mark S.
"bolt holes don't match the RX-7 hub"
Mark, do you know if this holds true for the 3rd gen
engine?
I think Bulents Cosmo engine had the same hub as the
3rd gen
engine. Your 20B three rotor hub used the 2nd gen
style CAS.
Paul Lamar
When you mentioned buying the Renesis front hub, were
you talking about the surpentine pulley? If so and the
price is resonable I will take it off your hands. I
want to slow the alternator RPM down.
hkaribian@yahoo.com
You will also slow the water pump which is not a good idea.
If you do this install a thermal couple in the rear (car) rotor housing
next to the lower spark plug hole to keep track of the metal
temperature.
Paul Lamar
The Rotary Engine NewsLetter. Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site.
http://www.rotaryeng.net
Copyright 1998-2007 All world wide rights reserved.