> Hello Paul
      >
      > If you have a drawing of a RV-4 with a turbo
13b stuffed inside the
      > cowl,
      > would you please be so kind as to publish it
here for me? My primary
      > interest is where to put the radiator - I do
not believe in aircon
      > cores -
      > in such a tight cowl. I would also like to
have the throttle body in
      > the
      > R/H (as seen from the prop end) cheek. I
have the engine, is between
      > projects, and lust after a -4.
      >
      > Thank you and regards,
      >
      > Erik Snyman
      > Messina
      > South Africa.
      >
      > You will have a tough time doing that with
the stock cowl.
      > The turbo won't fit.
      >
      > Are you willing to change the cowl?
      >
      > IMHO you would be better off with a P-port.
      >
      > --
      > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
      >
      >
      > If you are putting a 13b into an RV-4, I'd
recommend a few
     things- make
      > the firewall 1" taller, move the prop hub
out 5-6 inches to
     44"-45" in
      > front of the firewall, and use a 16"
diameter spinner. Then you will
      > have enough room to stuff the 13b in there.
I am abandoning the
      > fiberglass cowl, and making an aluminum one.
I should have it done by
      > the end of the month, I hope. This will be
the forth (and last) cowl
      > that I will have made for this airplane.
Brian Trubee



     Brian,

     Thank you for the advice. I take it you are
refering to the standard
     cowl?

     Erik.

Eric,
I am talking about making an entirely new cowl from
scratch using those
dimensions that I specified, and omitting the cowl
cheeks. I'm putting
my radiator under the main spar like a P-51. I
figure that if I use the
clean sheet aproach, I won't be forced into
compromises.

Brian Trubee

How thick of a rad are you planning Brian?

Paul Lamar

It's two inches thick, the core is 13X22, mounted
slanted to the airflow, not exactly like the p-51,
which had a core that was around 10 inches thick. The
stock Mazda oil cooler is right next to the rad.

Brian Trubee

OK I guess it is something like this one.

I would use a splitter plate that far back about 2 inches
below the fuse. This will by pass the boundary layer.
Side plates not shown.

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

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