>       > Hello Paul
>       >
>       > If you have a drawing of a RV-4 with a
turbo
> 13b stuffed inside the
>       > cowl,
>       > would you please be so kind as to publish
it
> here for me? My primary
>       > interest is where to put the radiator - I
do
> not believe in aircon
>       > cores -
>       > in such a tight cowl. I would also like to
> have the throttle body in
>       > the
>       > R/H (as seen from the prop end) cheek. I
> have the engine, is between
>       > projects, and lust after a -4.
>       >
>       > Thank you and regards,
>       >
>       > Erik Snyman
>       > Messina
>       > South Africa.
>       >
>       > You will have a tough time doing that with
> the stock cowl.
>       > The turbo won't fit.
>       >
>       > Are you willing to change the cowl?
>       >
>       > IMHO you would be better off with a
P-port.
>       >
>       > --
>       > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
>       >
>       >
>       > If you are putting a 13b into an RV-4, I'd
> recommend a few
>      things- make
>       > the firewall 1" taller, move the prop hub
> out 5-6 inches to
>      44"-45" in
>       > front of the firewall, and use a 16"
> diameter spinner. Then you will
>       > have enough room to stuff the 13b in
there.
> I am abandoning the
>       > fiberglass cowl, and making an aluminum
one.
> I should have it done by
>       > the end of the month, I hope. This will be
> the forth (and last) cowl
>       > that I will have made for this airplane.
> Brian Trubee
> > > >      Brian,
> >      Thank you for the advice. I take it you are
> refering to the standard
>      cowl?
> >      Erik.
> > Eric,
> I am talking about making an entirely new cowl
from
> scratch using those
> dimensions that I specified, and omitting the cowl
> cheeks. I'm putting
> my radiator under the main spar like a P-51. I
> figure that if I use the
> clean sheet aproach, I won't be forced into
> compromises.
> > Brian Trubee
> > How thick of a rad are you planning Brian?
> > Paul Lamar


It's two inches thick, the core is 13X22, mounted
slanted to the airflow, not exactly like the p-51,
which had a core that was around 10 inches thick.
The
stock Mazda oil cooler is right next to the rad.

Brian Trubee

OK I guess it is something like this one.

I would use a splitter plate that far back about 2
inches
below the fuse. This will by pass the boundary
layer.
Side plates not shown.

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

Yup, that's the configuration I'm using. I still have
to build parts of the air scoop, but I am using a
splitter to capture the "clean" air. Since I will have
access to an english wheel, I will be making the scoop
out of aluminum.


I still have the fiberglass cowl, if anyone wants it,
let me know. It would be a good basis for making a
mold,  $30 plus shipping.
Brian Trubee


Wow that is super cheap Brian.
If nobody wants it now I'll buy it and keep it around until somebody
needs it. It is a major undertaking to make a buck for this kind
of cowl.

Paul Lamar

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