> >       > Hello Paul
> >       >
> >       > If you have a drawing of a RV-4 with a
> turbo
> > 13b stuffed inside the
> >       > cowl,
> >       > would you please be so kind as to
publish
> it
> > here for me? My primary
> >       > interest is where to put the radiator -
I
> do
> > not believe in aircon
> >       > cores -
> >       > in such a tight cowl. I would also like
to
> > have the throttle body in
> >       > the
> >       > R/H (as seen from the prop end) cheek. I
> > have the engine, is between
> >       > projects, and lust after a -4.
> >       >
> >       > Thank you and regards,
> >       >
> >       > Erik Snyman
> >       > Messina
> >       > South Africa.
> >       >
> >       > You will have a tough time doing that
with
> > the stock cowl.
> >       > The turbo won't fit.
> >       >
> >       > Are you willing to change the cowl?
> >       >
> >       > IMHO you would be better off with a
> P-port.
> >       >
> >       > --
> >       > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
> >       >
> >       >
> >       > If you are putting a 13b into an RV-4,
I'd
> > recommend a few
> >      things- make
> >       > the firewall 1" taller, move the prop
hub
> > out 5-6 inches to
> >      44"-45" in
> >       > front of the firewall, and use a 16"
> > diameter spinner. Then you will
> >       > have enough room to stuff the 13b in
> there.
> > I am abandoning the
> >       > fiberglass cowl, and making an aluminum
> one.
> > I should have it done by
> >       > the end of the month, I hope. This will
be
> > the forth (and last) cowl
> >       > that I will have made for this airplane.
> > Brian Trubee
> > > > > > > >      Brian,
> > > >      Thank you for the advice. I take it you are
> > refering to the standard
> >      cowl?
> > > >      Erik.
> > > > Eric,
> > I am talking about making an entirely new cowl
> from
> > scratch using those
> > dimensions that I specified, and omitting the
cowl
> > cheeks. I'm putting
> > my radiator under the main spar like a P-51. I
> > figure that if I use the
> > clean sheet aproach, I won't be forced into
> > compromises.
> > > > Brian Trubee
> > > > How thick of a rad are you planning Brian?
> > > > Paul Lamar
> > > It's two inches thick, the core is 13X22, mounted
> slanted to the airflow, not exactly like the p-51,
> which had a core that was around 10 inches thick.
> The
> stock Mazda oil cooler is right next to the rad.
> > Brian Trubee
> > OK I guess it is something like this one.
> > I would use a splitter plate that far back about 2
> inches
> below the fuse. This will by pass the boundary
> layer.
> Side plates not shown.
> > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.


Yup, that's the configuration I'm using. I still
have
to build parts of the air scoop, but I am using a
splitter to capture the "clean" air. Since I will
have
access to an english wheel, I will be making the
scoop
out of aluminum.


I still have the fiberglass cowl, if anyone wants
it,
let me know. It would be a good basis for making a
mold,  $30 plus shipping.
Brian Trubee


Wow that is super cheap Brian.
If nobody wants it now I'll buy it and keep it
around until somebody
needs it. It is a major undertaking to make a buck
for this kind
of cowl.

Paul Lamar

Ok Paul, if you want it, then I'll start working on
getting it out to you. I have no idea how much it will
cost to ship it, but the container will be about 3 x
4x 3 feet. Let me know if you want it. I'm letting it
go for cheap because I don't need it now, and I would
want to do a little more work on shaping it.

Brian Trubee

Hang on for a few days and see if anybody pipes up.
How many hours do you have in it so far?

Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

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