> > > > Hello Paul
> > > >
> > > > If you have a drawing of a RV-4 with a
> > turbo
> > > 13b stuffed inside the
> > > > cowl,
> > > > would you please be so kind as to
> publish
> > it
> > > here for me? My primary
> > > > interest is where to put the radiator -
> I
> > do
> > > not believe in aircon
> > > > cores -
> > > > in such a tight cowl. I would also like
> to
> > > have the throttle body in
> > > > the
> > > > R/H (as seen from the prop end) cheek. I
> > > have the engine, is between
> > > > projects, and lust after a -4.
> > > >
> > > > Thank you and regards,
> > > >
> > > > Erik Snyman
> > > > Messina
> > > > South Africa.
> > > >
> > > > You will have a tough time doing that
> with
> > > the stock cowl.
> > > > The turbo won't fit.
> > > >
> > > > Are you willing to change the cowl?
> > > >
> > > > IMHO you would be better off with a
> > P-port.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > If you are putting a 13b into an RV-4,
> I'd
> > > recommend a few
> > > things- make
> > > > the firewall 1" taller, move the prop
> hub
> > > out 5-6 inches to
> > > 44"-45" in
> > > > front of the firewall, and use a 16"
> > > diameter spinner. Then you will
> > > > have enough room to stuff the 13b in
> > there.
> > > I am abandoning the
> > > > fiberglass cowl, and making an aluminum
> > one.
> > > I should have it done by
> > > > the end of the month, I hope. This will
> be
> > > the forth (and last) cowl
> > > > that I will have made for this airplane.
> > > Brian Trubee
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Brian,
> > >
> > > Thank you for the advice. I take it you are
> > > refering to the standard
> > > cowl?
> > >
> > > Erik.
> > >
> > > Eric,
> > > I am talking about making an entirely new cowl
> > from
> > > scratch using those
> > > dimensions that I specified, and omitting the
> cowl
> > > cheeks. I'm putting
> > > my radiator under the main spar like a P-51. I
> > > figure that if I use the
> > > clean sheet aproach, I won't be forced into
> > > compromises.
> > >
> > > Brian Trubee
> > >
> > > How thick of a rad are you planning Brian?
> > >
> > > Paul Lamar
> >
> >
> > It's two inches thick, the core is 13X22, mounted
> > slanted to the airflow, not exactly like the p-51,
> > which had a core that was around 10 inches thick.
> > The
> > stock Mazda oil cooler is right next to the rad.
> >
> > Brian Trubee
> >
> > OK I guess it is something like this one.
> >
> > I would use a splitter plate that far back about 2
> > inches
> > below the fuse. This will by pass the boundary
> > layer.
> > Side plates not shown.
> >
> > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
>
>
> Yup, that's the configuration I'm using. I still
> have
> to build parts of the air scoop, but I am using a
> splitter to capture the "clean" air. Since I will
> have
> access to an english wheel, I will be making the
> scoop
> out of aluminum.
>
>
> I still have the fiberglass cowl, if anyone wants
> it,
> let me know. It would be a good basis for making a
> mold, $30 plus shipping.
> Brian Trubee
>
>
> Wow that is super cheap Brian.
> If nobody wants it now I'll buy it and keep it
> around until somebody
> needs it. It is a major undertaking to make a buck
> for this kind
> of cowl.
>
> Paul Lamar
Ok Paul, if you want it, then I'll start working on
getting it out to you. I have no idea how much it will
cost to ship it, but the container will be about 3 x
4x 3 feet. Let me know if you want it. I'm letting it
go for cheap because I don't need it now, and I would
want to do a little more work on shaping it.
Brian Trubee
Hang on for a few days and see if anybody pipes up.
How many hours do you have in it so far?
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
I have no idea how much time I have in this thing- a lot. I think I can
do a better job with aluminum, and I'm planning on polishing the
airplane anyway, so it's of no use to me now.
Brian
The Rotary Engine NewsLetter. Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site.
http://www.rotaryeng.net
Copyright 1998-2007 All world wide rights reserved.