Jerry,
Cut the production part slightly longer than the marking jig. Slip the
part into the marking jig (and clamp one end?) and then trace the cut
line(s) with a silver pencil. It may help to cut the production piece
at an angle (on the bandsaw?) before the trace operation. I, most of
the time, I used a 4" hand grinder for my parts and jigs. Production
parts may be better ground on fixed pedestal grinders with 3/4" and
1/4" round nose wheels. Roughing operations can still be done with
(handheld) cutoff wheels with the marked part held in a vise after
cut-to-length.
There are also notchers on the market that use hole saws for tube
notching. I am very leary about using these on thin wall 4130 tubing
because of the wide tooth spacing, ie. approx 8 tpi. You can cut notches
better in aircraft tubing via abrasive methods. I also remember seeing
abrasive belt notchers. For low and medium quantities grinding wheels
are best?? I buy my 4" cutoff wheels at Menards for $1.10 (was $.99
before Christmas).
Dan
Here is the way I would do it using Rhino.
Paul Lamar
Dan your techniques and Paul's templates certainly would help in a
production situation. In my case, I do tubing joinery almost every
day but every piece is unique so making a pattern is a waste of time.
Right now I use a six inch grinder with shaped wheels and a dremel
tool to dress out the tapered edges left by the grinder. I have
ordered a HECK Tubing Nibbler which should be much faster and get rid
of the noise and mess generated by the grinder. I have my fingers
crossed as this is not an inexpensive machine. Jerry
Dear Jerry
When you get your Heck nibbler(like I told you a while ago to get)
make sure the anvil holder and anvil are tight. Mine was loose from the
factory and self destructed. Had to get a new anvil. Did they tell you what
to lube the tubes with before cutting to extend the life of the punch.?
Regards
Ed Klepeis
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