> >>> Jerry,
> >>>
> >>> Cut the production part slightly longer than the marking jig.
> >>> Slip the
> >>> part into the marking jig (and clamp one end?) and then trace the
> >>> cut
> >>> line(s) with a silver pencil. It may help to cut the production
> >>> piece
> >>> at an angle (on the bandsaw?) before the trace operation. I, most
> >>> of
> >>> the time, I used a 4" hand grinder for my parts and jigs.
> >>> Production
> >>> parts may be better ground on fixed pedestal grinders with 3/4" and
> >>> 1/4" round nose wheels. Roughing operations can still be done with
> >>> (handheld) cutoff wheels with the marked part held in a vise after
> >>> cut-to-length.
> >>>
> >>> There are also notchers on the market that use hole saws for tube
> >>> notching. I am very leary about using these on thin wall 4130
> >>> tubing
> >>> because of the wide tooth spacing, ie. approx 8 tpi. You can cut
> >>> notches
> >>> better in aircraft tubing via abrasive methods. I also remember
> >>> seeing
> >>> abrasive belt notchers. For low and medium quantities grinding
> >>> wheels
> >>> are best?? I buy my 4" cutoff wheels at Menards for $1.10 (was $.99
> >>> before Christmas).
> >>>
> >>> Dan
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Here is the way I would do it using Rhino.
> >>>
> >>> Paul Lamar
> >>
> >> Dan your techniques and Paul's templates certainly would help in a
> >> production situation. In my case, I do tubing joinery almost every
> >> day but every piece is unique so making a pattern is a waste of time.
> >> Right now I use a six inch grinder with shaped wheels and a dremel
> >> tool to dress out the tapered edges left by the grinder. I have
> >> ordered a HECK Tubing Nibbler which should be much faster and get rid
> >> of the noise and mess generated by the grinder. I have my fingers
> >> crossed as this is not an inexpensive machine. Jerry
> >
> >
> >
> > Dear Jerry
> > When you get your Heck nibbler(like I told you a while ago to
> > get)
> > make sure the anvil holder and anvil are tight. Mine was loose from
> > the
> > factory and self destructed. Had to get a new anvil. Did they tell
> > you what
> > to lube the tubes with before cutting to extend the life of the
> > punch.?
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Ed Klepeis
>
>
> > Hi Ed, No they did not, but I was thinking cutting oil. What do
> > you recommend? Jerry

I've used a Bridgeport with hole saws of varying sizes on 4130 of
various walls and clamped the tubes at various angles AND been gentle.
There were no problems.  I've also used a band saw - very carefully.
Yogi


The Rotary Engine NewsLetter. Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site. http://www.rotaryeng.net
Copyright 1998-2007 All world wide rights reserved.