Yes, a/c is still in primer.  I'll see what I can do on this.  I'm
        pretty sure Lancair sells fiberglass gills that I could bond onto
        the lower cowl.  That's just what I wanted... more fiberglass work.

        Mark S.

        Make some measurements first and see if it is not something else
        such as an air leak in the input duct. The less porous the core
    the more
        important the input duct air leaks.

        Use thin wood ply door skins from the Home Depot to make the duct.
        Then cover
        them with glass. Quick and easy.

        As far as I know three people have been affected by coolant
    leaks. Two
        tried to turn back to the runway and crashed and one landed on the
        freeway.
        Non fatal crashes.

        When water turns to steam it expands something like 6000 times as I
        recall.
        What happens next is the pressure cap over pressure valve pops off
        and the steam pumps the remaining coolant overboard in seconds.
        Not something you want to fool around with.

        Use a cowl flap Mark.

        It will enhance the flow through the oil core during take off and
        climb out.

        Aero drag matters not on climb out. Much of the HP just goes to lift
        the weight of the airplane. 2500 pounds at 1000 feet per minute is
        is 2,500,000 ft pounds per minute. Dividing by 33,000 foot
    pounds per
        minute which is one HP equals 75 HP just to lift the weight of the
        aircraft
        alone not counting aero drag. If it is 1500 FPM it becomes 112.5 HP.
        The induced
        aero drag also increases due to the higher wing lift coefficient
        required.

        I know you know most of this as you have my cooling book so this is
        primarily
        for the new guys.

        Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.

    Do the cowl skins have any core (nomex/foam)?  If not, I'd be tempted to
    make a guess at where the outlet goes, and cut three sides of the
    outlet, leaving the front edge attached.  Then wedge something in the
    hole (a section of 2x4 or slightly thicker, wrapped in duct tape),
    lifting the trailing edge of the flap outward.   Make a couple of layups
    on the outside along the tapered edges of the scoop.  Allow to cure.
    Remove the 2x4.  Add reinforcing layups to the inside.  Make a
    connection for each end of the SCAT tube out of foam and glass...

    Might look like this when done:

    http://www.eagle1aviation.net/images/planes/1983%20Cessna%20210%20P/n4695a6.JPG

    http://www.eagle1aviation.net/images/planes/1983%20Cessna%20210%20P/copyDSC00014.jpg



    Matt-

Matt,

I was thinking of something more along the lines of the Ferrari
Testerosa air inlets, only reversed and smaller.  Now that would look
cool!!!

Mark S.

The Rotary Engine NewsLetter. Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site. http://www.rotaryeng.net
Copyright 1998-2007 All world wide rights reserved.