> > > The rear motor mount can be done any number of ways off the nose
> > > gear tube.
> > > I recommend a male and female rubber rod end so the down thrust angle
> > > can be adjusted.
> > >
> > > More dimensions soon Jerry.
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > > This should be everything.
> > >
> > >
> > > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks Paul, first question, has the top center engine mount point
> > been eliminated? More Qs later. I rode my bicycle 30 miles
> > yesterday and another 24 today. I am too exhausted to think. :)
> > jerry
> >
> > Yes. Not needed.
> >
> > The rear mount shown may not work. Does anybody have any more details
> > about how the nose gear bungee cords works? A photo would help.
> >
> > --
> > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
>
>
> Paul,
>
> I don't think that the lower mount point will work attached to the nose
> gear leg. The nose gear leg moves up and down along the firewall and is
> cushioned by the bungee. Page two of the following link has a photo of
> the installation:
http://www.zenithair.com/stolch801/data/gear-nose-s2.pdf
>
> I would feel more comfortable if we could somehow attach that top
> firewall mount point to the oil pan mount. Is it just too tight to the
> firewall? Perhaps the engine cold be moved a bit further forward to
> accomplish this. I do not have any dimensions but the Walter LOM is
> another Chris Heintz suggested installation and the length of the LOM is
> substantially further forward than the Lycoming or the present rendition
> of the Rotary. Here are a few pics of that installation:
>
>
>
<http://www.zenithair.com/stolch801/builder-pics/fp-11.jpg>STOL CH 801
>
<http://www.zenithair.com/stolch801/builder-pics/c-gzwx1.jpg>
> PATRICK WRASE
>
> I agree. I'll think of something else. Perhaps rivet the bracket to
the angles.
> I'll make detail 3D of the gear leg.
>
> Thanks Patrick.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------
>
> Hi guys
>
> I need some more measurements. Here is what I need.
> You can load the jpg's into MS Paint and mark them up and send them
> back. Or just answer the questions. What ever is easier.
>
>
> --
> Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Hi Paul,
I have made the measurements you need. I apologize for the significant
figures but I just read them straight off of the dial calipers. And to
further confuse matters, all of the units are now in decimal inches:
A. Width of Z flange - 4.345" (outside to outside)
B. Diameter of hole - 2.050"
C. Distance of Center Hole - 2.610" (measured from back side of
Z-flange to center of hole)
D. Width of Channel - 3.970" (outside to outside)
E. Distance up from Bottom - 6.805"
F. Thickness of Flange - 0.062"
G. Diameter of Hole - 0.752"
Distance Between Pins - 10.670"
Diameter of Strut - 2.006"
Let me know if there is anything else needed.
Thanks
Pat
Thanks Pat. Just what I need. Jerry wants them in inches anyway.
BTW The assemble manual pdf's are great but they very carefully avoid dimensions
where ever possible. I don't blame them. They don't want somebody in the world copying their
airplane. Looks like it it rapidly becoming the standard STOL aircraft in the world.
A 250 HP Mazda p-port engine will make a great STOL aircraft with half the fuel
burn of the turbo prop versions. Not to mention 1/10 the cost of the engine :)
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
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