> > The rear motor mount can be done any number of ways off the nose
> > gear tube.
> > I recommend a male and female rubber rod end so the down thrust
angle
> > can be adjusted.
> >
> > More dimensions soon Jerry.
> >
> > ---------------------------------------------------
> >
> > This should be everything.
> >
> >
> > Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
>
>
>
> Thanks Paul, first question, has the top center engine mount point
> been eliminated? More Qs later. I rode my bicycle 30 miles
> yesterday and another 24 today. I am too exhausted to think. :)
> jerry
>
> Yes. Not needed.
>
> The rear mount shown may not work. Does anybody have any more
details
> about how the nose gear bungee cords works? A photo would help.
>
> --
> Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Paul,
I don't think that the lower mount point will work attached to
the nose
gear leg. The nose gear leg moves up and down along the firewall
and is
cushioned by the bungee. Page two of the following link has a
photo of
the installation:
http://www.zenithair.com/stolch801/data/gear-nose-s2.pdf
I would feel more comfortable if we could somehow attach that top
firewall mount point to the oil pan mount. Is it just too tight
to the
firewall? Perhaps the engine cold be moved a bit further forward to
accomplish this. I do not have any dimensions but the Walter LOM is
another Chris Heintz suggested installation and the length of the
LOM is
substantially further forward than the Lycoming or the present
rendition
of the Rotary. Here are a few pics of that installation:
<http://www.zenithair.com/stolch801/builder-pics/fp-11.jpg>STOL
CH 801
<http://www.zenithair.com/stolch801/builder-pics/c-gzwx1.jpg>
PATRICK WRASE
I agree. I'll think of something else. Perhaps rivet the bracket to
the angles.
I'll make detail 3D of the gear leg.
Thanks Patrick.
------------------------------------------------------
Hi guys
I need some more measurements. Here is what I need.
You can load the jpg's into MS Paint and mark them up and send them
back. Or just answer the questions. What ever is easier.
--
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
I'm out of town for the holiday, will get these to you Tuesday evening.
As far as the top-center mount point, an option I've been considering is
to add an arm from it to the alternator bracket mount point on top of
the block. The conceptual equivalant of inverting the bottom oil pan to
firewall arm that's currently used.
The LOM engine conversion requires major modifications to the firewall
and nosewheel. They extend the nosewheel 8 inches forward using trusses
off the stock nosewheel channel. I've also heard that those planes act
like lawn darts when you pull power.
I'll review this batch of drawings today.
--Kenny A.
No problem Kenny. Pat came through the dims I need.
The top center mount has a caution about drilling holes so I won't use
it.
It looks like we can bolt the rear mount to the upper part of the
lower channel flanges.
Part # 8F7-2
--
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
"...The top center mount has a caution about drilling holes so I won't use
it...."
The top center mount is not optional. It is the primary load path of the
engine thrust to wing drag, through the 'windshield braces' to the main
wing spar attach points. Leaving it unattached leaves two triangle ends
unsupported. Refer to the photos I previously emailed. Refer to any of
the 'alternative engine installations' on the zenith site (including the
LOM photo I just referenced) to see the application.
--Kenny A.
http://websites.expercraft.com/kennya/
Thanks for your thoughts on this matter Ken.
I gave it some thought and I came to the same conclusion at first. However it is
not totally unsupported as the metal parts of the cowl (not to be confused with
the FG engine cowl) in shear and firewall sheet metal are the support. The cowl
sheet metal supports it in the horizontal plain and the firewall partially
in the horizontal plain but mostly in the vertical plain. Both provide
support in the lateral plain. The problem with an upper horizontal strut
to this point is it interferes with the intake manifold and or water pump.
If after you have your engine installed and the intake manifold finished
you could add a strut with rubber rod ends to the upper fifth mounting point.
It would not hurt.
--
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
The Rotary Engine NewsLetter. Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site.
http://www.rotaryeng.net
Youtube key word UTUBPLEASE
Copyright 1998-2008 All world wide rights reserved.