> >>> Hi all,
      > >>> Does anyone have a design for a low-profile
      > adapter block to attach to
      > >>> the oil filter mount, so a remote filter can
      > be installed? Just curious
      > >>> to know if I am reinventing the wheel or not.
      > >>> Thanks much,
      > >>> John Bell
      > >>
      > >>
      > >> Some body may have one of those but I don't
      > know who. Jerry Hey could
      > >> build it.
      > >> Here are some pictures. I'll ask Al Gietzen
      > where he got his.
      > >>
      > >> Paul Lamar
      > >
      > >
      > > Paul,
      > >
      > > I will assume  the Renesis engine oil pump is
      > significantly better
      > > performing than the 1990? single turbo 13B if have.
      > So how can I
      > > upgrade the oil pump performance in my engine?
      > > One option is to modify and bolt on the Renesis front
      > housing
      > >
      > > Second question.   Racing Beat recommends when trying
      > to boost a 13B to
      > > power levels over 300hp that a second oil return line
      > into the block be
      > > added.  Where would this second line be tapped into?
      > >
      > >
      > > Doug in Japan.
      > >
      > >
      > > There is nothing wrong with the 13B oil pump.
      > > Especially the 3rd gen model. The 3rd gen turbo
      > generated 280 HP stock.
      > >
      > > You can actually reduce the oil temp by doing away
      > with the right angle
      > > from the pump out to the oil coolers. Some say as much
      > as ten degrees.
      > > Any time you are pumping fluid through a right angle
      > you are adding
      > > heat. I think this
      > > is the right place on the front end housing  but you
      > can tell by
      > > examining a front end housings as the internal oil
      > passages are
      > > obvious. This is as direct out of the oil pump as you
      > can get. Block
      > > off the old front cover outlet. Keep the front oil
      > pressure regulator
      > > in the system.
      > >
      > > Don't use a pipe tap on the cast iron block. Too
      > easy to crack the block.
      > > Use a straight thread fitting with o-ring. Keep it the
      > same size as
      > > the ID of the oil cooler plumbing hose.
      > >
      > > Paul Lamar
      > Hi Doug;
      > Paul has listed many of them.
      >
      > Some common oil system modifications, most of these are
      > overkill unless
      >   >8k rpm racing:
      >
      > eshaft oil jet mod
      > thermal pellet replacement
      > front cover oring- replacement/fixes
      >
      > pressure relief shim
      > oil pan baffling to help oil/air separation.
      > oil filter block-off - filter relocation
      > 3rd gen/race pressure regulator
      >
      > 3rd gen/rx8 multi-window bearings
      > 3rd gen irons/oil pump
      >
      > block normal front cover oil discharge exit
      > drill and tap front iron main bearing feed tap
      > drill and tap a new, straight out oil discharge
      > oil pump passage modification to a smoothed kidney shape
      >
      > dry sump setup
      >
      > remove the oil filter screen (you must ensure that NOTHING
      > solid will be
      > sucked into the pump)
      > add a bell mouth to the oil pickup tube
      >
      > align/enlarge bearing window to match galleries
      > gallery enlargement - 13B engines do not have as much meat
      > to bore out
      > the oil galleries as the 12a
      >
      > Radical oil pedestal removal to shrink the engine.
      >
      > Probably forgetting a few mods...
      >
      > Here are a few pics of some common high power mods on
      > nopistons.com:
      > http://www.nopistons.com/forums/Oil-Pump-Mods-t51440.html
      > Do a few searches on oil system modifications.  Lynn and
      > others have
      > provided a lot of info/pics.
      >
      > Cheers
      > Cary
      >
      >
      > Cary

     Can you elaborate on the purpose of the mod "drill and tap front
     iron main
     bearing feed tap"? Is that the AN fitting in the lower front iron
     pic? What is
     the blue AN fitting in the lower rear iron? Is that into the rear
     main feed
     passage? After looking at the oil pump discharge passage, it appears
     the wall
     thickness would not hold enough NPT threads. Is this outer wall
     machined away at
     the corner so a straight fitting can be threaded into the direct
     passage to the
     pump?

     regards, Robert

In the picture, I have drawn in the upper dowel gallery used in the
stock engine, and the dowels are lined with threads. The gold boss
fitting labeled "oil in" is a new installation. The brass plug in the
gallery end is drilled out, the face of the casting is milled flat then
drilled and tapped for a straight thread and a chamfer for an "O" ring
seal. The straight threads adds little stress to the casting. This
location provides a straight shot into the front main bearing, and more
than doubles the cross section of runners feeding the front main. The
dowel gallery is left as stock. This fitting is fed oil from the new
block on the filter stand, through a dash 10 AN hose.

The stock oil out fitting in the aluminum front cover is plugged. The
"O" ring junction is used with the stock "O" ring but a sheet stock disc
is fitted under the "O" ring. So there will be no "O" ring failures with
loss of pressure. You may also just fit a disc slightly taller than the
"O" ring and install that to block the hole with no "O" ring at all.

There is a very small gallery into the front cover to feed the OMP. If
you plan to use it, no changes are made. You can leave the OMP (Oil
Metering Pump) in place and remove the snap rings and drive gear.
It can be reactivated at any later time if you like.

The lower gold fitting is the new oil out location direct from the
pressure side pump cavity. Again this must be a tube to boss with an "O"
ring as above. An NPT might work well enough, but there is a danger of a
cracked casting when the tapered pipe threaded fitting is tightened.

The blue tube to boss at the lower rear is just replacing the stock
banjo fitting.

Lynn E. Hanover


Well done Lynn. I might add with the original set up there is not one but
about 3 or 4 sharp right angles. At 30 gallons an hour out of the pump
that creates a lot of heat in the oil and makes the pump work harder than
it needs to.

-------------------------------------------------

I just found another good picture on the subject.
This is a pipe tap but what you want is a straight thread tap.

Paul Lamar