Doug go to your local yacht store and just buy the conversion kit  :)
Just kidding. I know there is no local Yacht store in your town as you live in
the mountains. You might have to go to Tokyo. What you want is a
preparation kit for bonding epoxy to aluminum.

Here are some more pictures showing what happens if you don't get it
right. I assume you have the Devcon already. I also assume you cannot
get JB Weld in Japan.

Here is a test device that I made to test JB Weld. I put it in the freezer
for a week or two and then boiled it. It is now a couple of years old
and still holding pressure. Done right JB weld is good to 3000 PSI.
The force on these end caps at 30 psi is about 100 pounds each.

Paul Lamar

Thanks for the info, and direction. I just noticed some posts that stated
that my 2nd gen. housing dowel pin areas are not as robust as the
following 13B REW third gen housings. Are  they speaking about the Al.
rotor housings? I think this was a problem with race engines producing
over 400 hp.  and  more torque.

Doug in Japan.

It is the cast iron but that was a 280 HP turbo engine. How much power are you
talking about?

Paul Lamar


On E-90 at least 300 to 310 max. with redline shy of 8,000rpm preferable
7700 max.
This 2nd gen P-ported engine  is a study in energy efficiency so the goal
is "Doing more with Less".

Less boost, less weight, and hopefully with a turbo compound, less fuel.
More cost though:)

 Doing that with a  turbo charger P-port is just too easy so I have to
figure out a harder way to do it:)   With 10:1 Renesis rotors I will be
severely limited to around 5psi boost and this is where  the  ethanol
fuel shines.

 Today was shop day and tomorrow is as well.   Interestingly your
intuition is still working fine. The joke about yachting supplies in the
mountains turned out to be true. There is a new factory here in the
Japanese Alps, that makes yachting hardware and I went to speak to them
about sourcing alodine:


Doug


If people are wonder how Doug is going to reach 8000 RPM the answer
is he has a 3:1 gear box. 8000 is then 2666 prop RPM.

One way around the cracked dowel pin is use larger tension bolts
that act like 16 dowel. I am not sure how Guru did this. One way would
be to stack up all the housings using the current large dowel pins to locate
them and use a long 1/2 inch reamer to make sure all holes line up precisly.
Looks like a 1/2 inch bolt would be a perfect fit. Its going to add some weight
unless you turn them down between registration areas. Guru used to do it but I
think they are now out of biz.

Doug, Make up a list of question to ask John at Mazdatrix when you come over.
John has been working full time on rotary engines for close to 40 years.
Both Mazdatrix and Racing Beat have booths but Jim Mederer is hard to
find as he is out socializing mostly :)

Paul Lamar

Paul,

If at these power settings the 2nd gen. engine dowel pin area is
questionable, it is easier for me to just to pick up the 3 gen iron
housings from the guy up the road.

 Theoretically a functioning turbo compound system will add more torque
to the drive line but whether the dowel pin area 'sees' it or not is
another matter.  The inertia of the aircraft prop mass loads the engine
differently.  I suspect it is more an issue in drag racing whereby by
popping the clutch, the whole engine wants to wind up.  Correct me if I
am wrong but only the dowel pins take this force as the long bolts are,
quite rightly, in tension only.  In the second, and I hope final engine,
I wish to go all aluminum IF R.B. housings are strong enough.
Apparently they are.   My friend who has the 20B was told 300 hp is no
problem as racers push them well beyond that.

Yes I have my notes and presentation materials ready to ask some
questions and order some rotors, seals, gears and rebuild kits as well.


Doug in Japan

I suspect the failures have been due to detonation.

The turbo compound torque will not add to the problem.

Yes the rear end housing dowel pins see the accumulated torque from both
rotor.


Paul Lamar