Doug, As I was saying don't over cool.
Some of this data was done in 1978 and was only 1500 RPM
which Mazda correctly recognized as their main rotary BSFC problem
in cars.  The same principles apply to higher RPM and power.

Ideal would be a 3 HP electric motor powered efficient water pump and
a 200 amp alternator. At high take off engine power the pump would
pump enough water to keep the housing just below 500 F.  At cruise
the voltage and current to the water pump could be cut back to keep the rotor housing temperature high and minimize heat loss to the coolant. This could be done automatically based on the data from a thermocouple located next to the spark plug near the steel liner. A fixed thermostat will not do the job as coolant temp near boiling is not a good precursor of metal temperature. Cowl flaps maybe. Cowl flaps are not practical in a car.

Patent applied for.

Now everybody is going to scream and say Paul Lamar WAS dead set against electric water pumps. What I was dead set against was LOW HP electric water pumps with tiny CRAPPY impellers. If the electric water pump has a 20 amp fuse the max HP of the pump is 20 amps times 13 volts divided by 746 or .35 HP. Experiences has shown that is not enough pump HP to cool a continuous high power rotary engine. You need a high HP pump and that means 200 amps. Not 20 amps. Ten times as much.

This is nothing new. Back in the early nineteen thirties the US Army wanted a 300 degree F coolant temperature aircraft engine for the same reasons.
They did not pull it off. They did not have microcomputers in those days :)
However the P51 with cooling air exit duct flap came close.

Paul Lamar

Hi Lomar :)

You might also consider using just the oil pump to cool the housings -
not sure if its feasible or not to balance out the heat.  Also
simplifies the plumbing.
IIRC, Al Gietzen? measured something like 15 gallons per minute with a
20B pump @6k.  I don't know if they are the same as the superior 3rd gen
oil pumps.

One of the MMC/Al-SiC ceramics would also make a nice high rpm/temp
rotor.  Foamed Metals/MMC might be even nicer :)
Is David Mathes still on the list?

Another possible cooling design point would be to be able to keep the
oil temp at 160-180degF or so for max power.  Probably less of a problem
idling or after a decent on approach.

Cheers
~Cary