Clint "Sandy" McNabb wrote:

 Paul,

I'm really warming up to your folded core concept if you think there is
enough cooling there. I did some measuring and drawing to see how it fits
(see Folded core for a Glass Goose 1.jpg attached).

Since your book says that one third of the Renesis cooling is through the
oil coolers I added one core to your plan to give the design the 1/3 to 2/3s
balance...and it's also symmetrical now. I set the angle between the cores
at 30 degrees. Fifteen degrees for each core works out to the equivalent of
a 3" x 10" intake for the wedge (10" x 10" core = 100 sq in x 30% requires a
30 sq in intake. The core is 10" high so the width is 3".....thus 15 degree
from centerline). I certainly could be off base with this direction.

I drew yellow lines on pictures of three angles to describe what I consider
the rough maximum area in front of the engine for cores.

My only concern at this time is the intake area. Would it require a 10" by
24" intake for all those cores to get their air???

Looks like I could even make the cores taller than 10".

Thanks very much for your help with this.

Sandy McNabb
Glass Goose with Renesis

Thats great Sandy. I am pretty excited about the idea too. I don't know why this did not occur to me a long time ago. The concept is perfect for the Goose

Subtract the thickness of the cores from the intake area as the block itself
serves the scoop function. BTW From here on out I am going to call it a cooling block. Lots of scoop area is not a bad thing necessarily. It depends on what is behind it. If the core porosity is low it never builds full dynamic pressure
and therefore drag is reduced. That is fundamental to this scheme.
Here are some pictures of a WW II Typhoon I saw in Henden that uses a somewhat similar scheme. The core used is quite porous however it would still benefit greatly from a folded core.

You have tanks shown on front and back of the cores. You don't need those.
Use two large tanks. One on top and one on the bottom. Slots are cut in the
plate and the cores are welded around the slots. Then a top plate is welded on. Thats simplifies the plumbing and reduces the depth of the cooling block as well as the width.

A minor point. I think you should swap back to front so the outer cores themselves can be the outer walls of the scoop. Also the engine is
bit higher than 12 inches so perhaps the cores can be 11" high  by 9" wide.
That would make the block 13 inches high by about eight or nine inches deep
giving a bit more room behind the block for the air to escape.

It all depends on what you can find out there. Perhaps some aluminum heater
cores will work.

Paul Lamar