OK the streamline strut was 1.6 inches major diameter .049 thick 4130 I
think.
The top plate was also .049 thick 4130.
The welded on lower mounting tube had the two mini cooper engine strut
rubber
bushings.
These 4130 items were heat treated to Rockwell C 64 after welding which was
important. Failure to do so may result in a failed wing.
The secret to these was as the car braked the wing would move forward
slightly
increase the angle of attack and the down force. As the car accelerated
the wing
would move back decreasing the angle of attack and the drag. Some people
defeated this feature by adding unnecessary drag struts.
The lateral loads on the wing were taken by the triangular plates welded
to the
top of the struts acting as dual leaf springs. 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch Bolts
went up into the wing spar where nut plates were located. Rubber washers were
used to
give a bit of angular freedom. This would only work if the wing was super
light weight which it was due to the use of .016 thick 7075 T6 skin and .020
5052 H32
corrugated spar. Of course there was an angle adjusting link behind the
strut. The wing was not flush riveted as the induced drag was far higher than the
skin friction drag. Monel pop rivets were used.
The flexibility this provided was absolutely necessary as the top of the
hub carrier would move from side to side as the wheels went over a bump or the
car rolled slightly in a high G turn.
Some people attempted to copy it but they missed some of the important
details.
BTW Dozens of Formula A cars and several CanAm cars used wings supplied
by me using this design for many races. No wing failures occurred.
Paul Lamar
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Hi All,
Eric has been keeping me in the loop. I hope that this will help in the
building of the rear wing struts.
My information came from Paul Lamar. He was pretty much the high wing guru
in the 70's :
Hope this helps,
Reinhold Jung
CEO Add-Vintage Motors
9702 N. Hauser Lk. Rd.
Hauser, Id. 83854
www.addvintagemotors.com
addvintage@roadrunner.com
208-773-1299