I called a local mazda dealer's service department, seeking a second
opinion
on
my used rotors. I was told by the service writer that dealer service depts
do
not take down engines, they don't even know what things inside look like,
they
just get a new engine form Mazda. Hmmmm.
Does anyone out there who has the experience of rebuilding a rotary make
inspection measurements as called for in the shop manual? During cleaning
I
found some "minor" dings and dents, and some burrs along the edges (not
seals)
that I carefully stoned out in a 2 step process, med-fine, then very fine.
the
rotor housing clearence passes minimum of .1mm. but there are still some
cosmetic issues where some knuckle head used a brass hammer, and a couple
other
dings. Would anyone here care to see pictures and offer comment?
Will be posting turbo manifold this evening, along with other picuters if
there
is an interest.
C. Smith
Sure send the pictures.
Paul Lamar
Here are some images. I didn't want to compress them too much, and loose
all
the detail.
If there is a particular size you prefer to the group, please let me know.
C. Smith
Those are some strange marks but I don't see anything that is a show
stopper.
As long as the holes for the end seals are not too oversize you should be
OK. The pict size is fine. Perhaps a few too many but OK for this once.
Paul Lamar
Yep 9:1 cr rotors
Skip
Still learning, what is the marking, or clue that identifies the rotor as
the NA 9:1 rotor?
Thanks, C. Smith
Old message.
Paul Lamar
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Hi Paul,
I'm enjoying following along with your current threads!!
Hope you don't mind me chiming in here again to ask another newbie
question:
I've been slowly acquiring S5 NT (9.7 : 1) rotors for my 20B NA
project (much cheaper that RX8 rotors). I had 2, and just received the
3rd one today. I've been trying to be careful to make sure I get
rotors with matching weight code stamps, but the one I got today is
different. Can you help here? I hope you don't mind me including pictures!! I
tried to make the files small. The first 2 pics are the rotors I
already had, and they show a "C" along side another weird symbol (kinda looks
like a 7).
The next pic is the rotor I got today. It shows a "C" along
side an "E" : My question is.......Is it OK to use all these rotors
together? Are these all S5 (9.7 : 1) rotors? Is this last rotor a weight code
"C" or "E" ? What's the other symbol of Letter mean?
Thanks again for all your help and knowledge!!
Don
From what I gather you can't mix and match weight codes.
I think you need to have it balanced by an experienced
rotary engine balancer. The rotors must be balanced
about their center point and matched with all the other rotors
for weight and then the counter weights adjusted
for the exact weight of the rotors. There is a guy here in
So Cal that does it.
Rotor weight codes.
The only thing I can find is this.
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?p=1309602#post1309602-
I'll forward this to Jim Mederer. Hopefully he will have time
to help as he gets the really hard questions :)
Paul Lamar ...No rotor no motor.
Hi Don;
These all appear to "C" weight rotors. For a 2-rotor, letter
codes must be adjacent,
e.g. B/C, D/E, C/D are OK (A/C, B/D are NOT)
The rotors themselves are balanced about their centers at the
factory.
I am not sure what the balance requirements are for a 3-rotor.
I believe the backwards "E" and other characters are Japanese - don't
know what they mean.
Theoretically, the S5 rotors weigh the same as the 20B rotors, and
you "should"? be able to use the 20B front and rear counterweight without
rebalancing.
I posted some rotor/balance info a few weeks ago.
The S5 rotor faces are machined, the S4 have a rough cast appearance.
You could also measure the depth of the combustion area.
See attached file
- might be worth adding to the website. I don't have any turbo
stuff. A couple of housing comparisons might be useful as well, I'll see
what I can scare up...
When mixing and matching parts for higher than stock rpm, a custom
balance is not a bad idea.
Cheers
Cary
Thanks Cary,
This is what I have:
All are machined faces.
Thanks,
Don
Hi Don;
The S5 NA rotors are at a bit of a premium for racing and higher
activities :)
Worth a quick depth check on the rotor recesses to ensure they are all
the same. Personally, I would run the stock 9.0? 20b rotors in NA mode for the
5-8% HP loss. If you have the room under the cowl - you could re-add a turbo later.
Just curious, what is your project?
(Sorry if I've missed it, I don't read all the emails)
Cheers
Cary