Hello Paul,
Here are four pictures of P-port and the in-housing injection
holders.
This housing is one of several scrap housings I am machining to get
the
entrance angle and component dimensions finalized. These four
pictures
are from last August's work and don't show the finished bores yet.
The P-port will have an outer step bore similar to the injector
holders.
I am extremely happy with the hardness and toughness of the DEVCON Al
product. Only one trouble is the consistency is a little softer than
taffy so as you can see, it is easy to end up with inclusions. If
you
work fast and use a technique like applying frosting on a cake, then
good results can be obtained. Any hole can be drilled out and
filled.
The company sells another slightly softer epoxy that pours. I
assume it
has more solvent in it.
I was very happy with how the injector area worked out and was able
to
get the correct and final dimensions with this one housing. As for
the
P-port area I had to add about 6mm more along the bottom for the
slide
throttle to be supported correctly. For this test work, adding
epoxy is
not a problem as it sticks to a preexisting epoxy when roughened up a
bit. As you can see it sticks well to prepared alumunim and is damm
near as hard. It machines VERY nice.
Can it done with your straight-in approach?Yes why not? Bend up
some
thin aluminum sheet into the proper wedge profile. Alodize it. Fix
this
fence in place with hot glue gun on the outside. Epoxy should be
made
extra high and milled down to final dimensions. To save expensive
epoxy
add a 40mm wooden or plastic dowel in the area where the inlet will
be
bored.DO NOT PREHEAT to make it easier to pour. Follow the
directions for best results.
Doug in Japan
That 12.5 degree tilt looks like a real mechanical advantage.
I hope you can find a dyno over there to get some good numbers
on the pros and cons of your version. BSFC and HP.
Paul Lamar
Paul, With this approach why not bolt two housings together with a
center section between and the dowel pins then machine
that assembly P-port section flat so that a slide throttle can be
hard
mounted directly to the housings?
Fred O.
I think I see what you are driving at. That might work.
I'll have to do a 3D and see if that is feasible.
Paul Lamar
Paul,
I bought the taffy consistency product. As Lynn mentioned years
ago, and
repeated yesterday in almost the same words, the product held up in
the
exhaust port area in his kart motor.
Doug Fir
I would like to point out that the bypass ports I built into Power
Products engines using Devcon Plastic Aluminum, move fuel air
mixture from the
crank case to the cylinder, and as such were cooled during
operation. The
epoxy was exposed to high temperatures after shut down as the whole
engine
normalized the hot and cold sides. I have also potted Pport tubes
(carbon
steel) in place and never had a leak. I have not attempted to use
Devcon in or
near exhaust ports. I doubt that it would hold up for very long in
that
application.
Lynn E. Hanover.
I am going to try Doug's idea of putting epoxy on the outside
to make a flat area for an O-ring outer seal. If it leaks
in the future it can be more easily repaired. I'll buy the high
price liquid aluminum Devcon product but I am willing to bet it
is no better than JB Weld. I'll heat one puck of JB Weld and another
of DEVCON in the oven at 500 F and see what happens. My money is
on the JB Weld :)
The welded SS tube to the liner will be retained.
Paul Lamar
--
Paul,
OK but that may not tell you much as in application if your intake
port
gets up to 500 degrees I think your engine will have bigger problems:)
I take it you are concerned with thermal soak after the engine is shut
down? This could be a problem with an unshielded exhaust system
nearby.
I would be more concerned with comparing the compressive
strength,hardness, thermal creep characteristic, and toughness.
Are you going to retain the straight-in approach? If so the upper
wedge
of epoxy will be about 15mm high. I suggest you put a metal dam
there.
Best is a three side dam that conforms to the housing. This was the
next experiment I was going to try. It can be one piece stainless
that
is bent. Done properly it will look nice as well and of course can be
milled as well.
Doug in Japan
Yes. I will keep the straight in approach.
Paul Lamar
The heat soak issue is a real potential issue. I discovered today that
my manifold lines are melting on the intake tube fittings. This is not
happening during run time - the intakes are ice cold. The heat soak
after shutdown is something to behold as the intakes go from cold to
hot hot hot. The MP lines become hot & gummy. I've also noticed that
the unshielded engine mount tubes are too hot to touch while the
engine is running.
Mark (Rocky Mtn High)
You need red silicon hose on those manifold pressure lines.
Either that or braided teflon lined hose.
The motor mount tubes on my C182 also require heat shields.
BTW that Harbor Freight vac pump does not have a vac gauge.
You are going to need one.
Paul Lamar
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