Subject: Limo EZ P-port Plenum
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 5/30/2009, 12:34 PM
To: AAA Put this in the To box



 Paul,
 Attached are some pics of a mock up of a two stage plenum that
 ducts air from a scoop under the strake and turns it 180
 degrees, passes air through a filter and dumps it into the
 alumium portion through a MAF sensor out of a Lincoln Town Car.

 The intake runners are 22" long to the port opening at the rotor
 housing.  I mocked up the aluminum in poster board .  The
 injectors go in the plenum on the intake runners.  Would
 bell mouths be required at the ends?  The cold side with the
 filter will be the composite unit in the pic.  It will be bonded
 to an aluminum bulkhead that will serve as a mounting location
 for the MAF and the filter housing.  I made the housing adapter
 out of carbon fiber so a hose clamp that was included could be
 used to secure the filter.  Thanks for any help.



 Joe Berki
 Limo EZ
 13b P Port
 555 EFI

 Looks good Joe. Carve the bells out of foam.

 I updated the section on the web site about composite intake
 manifold. http://www.rotaryeng.net/carbon-fiber-intake.html
 So have another read for ideas.

 A recent idea is use 2 inch ID CEET flexible Neopren ducting from
 AC Spruce for the runners. It is smooth inside and is resistent to fuel
 vapor unlike the silicon stuff. Use straight sections of .049 wall
 2 inch OD  metal tube where ever possible and connect them with CEET
 for the curved sections. Page 203 on the 2009 AC Spruce cat.
 Cheaper than aluminum bends.

 Paul Lamar

 BTW Joe take that diagonal tube just ahead of the slide throttle out
 of there. That is a dangerous configuration. It could cause the main motor
 mount tube to crack and fail. Stabilize the mount laterally with
 a ball jointed strut to the wing strake.

 Paul Lamar



Thanks Paul,
That diagonal member is coming out to make room for the Spintech muffler
that is going there.

Joe

Remove both the upper and lowers.
If you don't have room for a ball joint link from the aft rubber bushing area
tie the motor mount to the lower cowl with a bolt. Also use 10-32 screws to
hold on the front part of the lower cowl. That will be all you need as
there is little side load on the motor mount. It just needs to be stabilized
from vibration. The reason we put the rubber bushings near the bottom
of the engine using a Schertz beam is so we can get some diagonals under the oil pan.

Paul Lamar

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