Paul could you please post the drawing for the oil pan and
include the
materials and dimensions?
I'll be using a mount almost identical to the CH-801 you
previously
designed. Also same for the S-beam? When fabricating the
S-beam what radius
is desired for the bend please? Does one use a hole saw for
the lightening
holes or a fly cutter? Thanks a bunch. I have an autocad
viewer, so should
be able to view a .dwg or .dxf file.
C. Smith
Here are some old designs but they may need to be adjusted
your type of airplane.
Paul Lamar
What is the material & thickness for the oil pan? I'm assuming 6061-T6, but not sure on thickness.
I did make note of 0.063" 4130 -- so will place that on the next Aircraft Spruce Order.
C. Smith -- as to hole saw or fly cutter: I'd recommend the hole
saw, as you are cutting through a weld bead on the 4130 box. I
guess you could clamp the two pieces side by side and cut the
holes before bending the 4130. Make sure Paul has everything
designed for your 801 before you start cutting. On the photos
is look like the tubes are welded in place into the beam, so I
suspect a milling machine with a fly cutter will come in handy
to "surface to top" to keep everything equal when tightened down.
Tom
How good are you at welding aluminum. Some people can weld
beer can :)
Anything from .049 up to .1875 will work with some weight
trade off. I suggest a little tig practice to see what
you can do. Check the oil pan bolt pattern as the RX8 engine differs
from the 13B. Use the bolt center finders and tap the aluminum
down on top to center punch the holes. A carbon fiber oil pan will
work with high temp epoxy and with the upper center hard point
type mount found on the 801 and the BearHawk.
If it is a Zenair 801 I have an improved mount for that using
the upper center hard point. I'll redo the old dwgs.
Don't get me wrong. If you have a 801 mount this new one will not
be worth retrofitting. The only way to get the airplane
done is freeze the design at some point and build it. Both mounts
will work.
Paul Lamar
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