I am thinking of setting up a system where
we bore the holes and weld in the SS tubes for you.
We need to do ten at a time to reduce the set up cost.
If people send me their rotor housings
I will save them until we have ten or more and then have the
work done. You will need to label your rotor housings
with your name and address and the date before you send
them to me.
In the meantime I will publish the number I have accumulated in hand
so people will get an idea when theirs will be shipped back
to them. You pay shipping cost to and from. If six months
goes by and we don't have ten I'll ship your rotor housings
back to you if you wish.
You use a die grinder or small drum sander to finish the weld
to your satisfaction.
What do you all think?
Paul Lamar
Do you have an idea how much it will cost and does it will include the
aluminum facing square
Jean Prudhomme
No the user will need to get the block and fit them to the engine before
he sends it to us for boring. As I said my guess is about $150 each or
somewhat less.
I'll know in a couple of days after I talk with my bud.
Paul Lamar
Paul--
Sorry, but my ignorance is showing.What is"the
aluminum facing square" Jean is referring to, above, and to which you
reply "the user will need to get the block and fit them (it?) to the
engine
before he sends it to us for boring."THANKS for your patience!
Paul Vermillion
I think Jean is referring to the sealing blocks AKA sealing plate.
You clean up the outside of the rotor housing with a die grinder and
fit the sealing block. Drill and tap 1/4 -24 four holes in the rotor
housing
outer wall using the existing holes in the sealing blocks as drill
guides. We can do this for you at extra cost. It is time consuming hand
work. Then the rotor housing is sent to use and we bore the 2 inch hole
and weld in the contoured SS p-port tube. Tougher to do at home but
it has been done on a drill press and a hole saw.
The idea here is to use red silicon RTV as a sealant around the SS p-port
tube.
It is high temperature and can be removed and replaced if in the remote
chance
a water jacket leak develops. Previously we bonded in the tubes with epoxy
which was a one shot deal. If a leak developed you were up the creek
without
a paddle as the engine had to be disassembled, the epoxy ground out and
the
tube repotted with new epoxy. With this scheme it is not necessary to
disassemble the engine to repair a coolant leak. The other end of the
SS tube is tig welded to the rotor housing steel liner.
The tubes can still be potted in place with epoxy or JB Weld but a
perfect seal is no longer required.
Paul Lamar
Paul,
I'm interested too. I don't have an engine, but planning for a Renesis. What
do you
recommend, 4 or 6 port? Who would you recommend for an engine builder?
Byron
If you p-port the engine it does not matter. I think the four port
was done away with around 2007.
Paul Lamar
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