I am thinking of setting up a system where
 we bore the holes and weld in the SS tubes for you.

 We need to do ten at a time to reduce the set up cost.

 If people send me their rotor housings
 I will save them until we have ten or more and then have the
 work done. You will need to label your rotor housings
 with your name and address and the date before you send
 them to me.

 In the meantime I will publish the number I have accumulated in hand
 so people will get an idea when theirs will be shipped back
 to them. You pay shipping cost to and from. If six months
 goes by and we don't have ten I'll ship your rotor housings
 back to you if you wish.

 You use a die grinder or small drum sander to finish the weld
 to your satisfaction.

 What do you all think?

 Paul Lamar


  Do you have an idea how much it will cost and does it will include the
 aluminum facing square

  Jean Prudhomme

  No the user will need to get the block and fit them to the engine before
  he sends it to us for boring. As I said my guess is about $150 each or
 somewhat less.
  I'll know in a couple of days after I talk with my bud.

  Paul Lamar


  Paul--
 Sorry, but my ignorance is showing.What is"the
 aluminum facing square" Jean is referring to, above, and to which you
 reply "the user will need to get the block and fit them (it?) to the
 engine
 before he sends it to us for boring."THANKS for your patience!
 Paul Vermillion


 I think Jean is referring to the sealing blocks AKA sealing plate.

 You clean up the outside of the rotor housing with a die grinder and
 fit the sealing block. Drill and tap 1/4 -24 four holes in the rotor
 housing
 outer wall using the existing holes in the sealing blocks as drill
 guides. We can do this for you at extra cost. It is time consuming hand
 work. Then the rotor housing is sent to use and we bore the 2 inch hole
 and weld in the contoured SS p-port tube. Tougher to do at home but
 it has been done on a drill press and a hole saw.

 The idea here is to use red silicon RTV as a sealant around the SS p-port
 tube.
 It is high temperature and can be removed and replaced if in the remote
 chance
 a water jacket leak develops. Previously we bonded in the tubes with
epoxy
 which was a one shot deal. If a leak developed you were up the creek
 without
 a paddle as the engine had to be disassembled, the epoxy ground out and
 the
 tube repotted with new epoxy. With this scheme it is not necessary to
 disassemble the engine to repair a coolant leak. The other end of the
 SS tube is tig welded to the rotor housing steel liner.

 The tubes can still be potted in place with epoxy or JB Weld  but a
 perfect seal is no longer required.

 Paul Lamar



Paul,

I'm interested too. I don't have an engine, but planning for a Renesis.
What
do you
recommend, 4 or 6 port? Who would you recommend for an engine builder?

Byron

If you p-port the engine it does not matter. I think the four port
was done away with around 2007.

Paul Lamar

Paul,

Who would you recommend for an engine builder?

Byron

I like Mazdatrix here on the west coast as they test run every engine they build.
They are also familiar with the welded p-port engine as they built
mine. They have a dyno to if you want your engine dynoed. They built Perry
Micks engine with several hundred hours on it so far.

BTW the four port used RX8 engine may be cheaper than a six port used RX8 engine.

Paul Lamar