The reason piston engine lose HP  with oil in the sump  is  churning
loses due to the  spinning crank. The oil in the  sump of a rotary  does
not  come near the rotors or the  e-shaft.

The oil drain backs  in  a rotary are several  starting in the front and
going
all the way to the   back. You will need some sort  of oil pan to collect
all
this  oil.

Paul Lamar


Years ago we made  the dry sump just a flat  plate. No pan. The stock pump
was used for  pressure, and a  single stage scavenge pump for collecting
oil
through a  hole in a rotor housing leg. The stock pump was fed through   the
flat plate with a flanged fitting in the stock pickup  holes.  Worked just
fine.
Good steady oil supply to  the  stock pump. The line from the scavenge pump
goes   through a  filter and cooler. The same for the pressure line  from
the
stock  pump.

Then we got a  real dry sump pump (Moroso) with 2 scavenge  sections. The
stock pump is no longer used. The front scavenge  pickup was a half  circle
cut
into the side of the pressure  relief in  the front cover. The normal oil
out
fitting becomes the  scavenge out for the front of the engine. The  rear
scavenge  pick up is a stock oil pressure relief valve  gutted and  a
window
cut
into one  side. The window  is  installed in the down direction and the
jamb
nut  tightened.   The normal oil-in, banjo fitting in the  rear  iron
becomes
the  rear scavenge out fitting. If there  is a fear of debris  damaging
the
pump, you can  install in-line bug screens.

Some  dry sump pumps have the  scavenge exit each section, so you have two
scavenge out lines to  run through coolers and or filters, and some run
one
section into the other inside the pump, and have only one  scavenge  out
line.

A bit less complexity but either  one  works fine. Peterson has a selection
of toothed belt pulleys  and  belts. Also any power transmission shop has
all
of   the drive stuff. The later square Peterson pumps are no  good.
The  pressure section splits open. The older round  Petersons are  fine.

For inverted use I would use the stock  oil filler pipe as  the inverted
pickup, using some sort of  more secure cap. For long  runs right side up,
rig a
1/8 Nylon line from the pressure  pump, or any line or filter stand  to
feed
the  inlet side of  the inverted  scavenge section, through a .015" orifice
so
it  never  runs dry. One scavenge pickup for up and one for down is   fine.
The scavenge  pumps pull a huge amount of air out of  the  engine and run
it
through the oil  tank and  then into the  breather hose and back into the
engine.
So air goes  the  wrong way through the breather  hose.

Oil pressure is  controlled in the pressure pump, not  inside the  engine.

You still need the ball type selector  valve to pull oil from both top  and
bottom of the storage  tank.

In the picture, find  the dry sump storage tank. Way  too big. Later
replaced
with tank made from a hand held  fire extinguisher  bottle.

Lynn E.  Hanover



Lynn--what  years/class/driverdid you run  this?  Have other photos of
engine
compartment and  suspension/chassis and with body on it?

Steve   Beckham

I have many, if Paul wants them here or perhaps a  private
transmission..........The car is a 93-95 RX-7 built to SCCA  GT-3 rules.
Raced  from 2000 to
2006. Driver  retired.

Lynn E. Hanover



Thank you for photos  Lynn--A three rotor normally aspirated peripheral
port?
You build the  chassis and the engines? Empty weight? Car competitive then
and now or  rules crippled? Still have the car Lynn?

Steve Beckham

At the  time it was built it was competitive with 244 HP 12-A with a "J"
bridgeport.  Then they let the Nissan 6 cylinder SX200 into the class With 6
38MM  chokes and 315 HP. The first two of those that came to Mid Ohio were
both  under the lap record in their first time on the track. They qualified
under  the lap record for GT-2 the next faster class. So my car and all other
Masda's  are obsolete in GT-3 and have been for a long time. They let us
have 38MM  chokes up from 36MM chokes, so we might have 250 HP now, but still
no chance  in hell of going fast enough. They could have made us tow a 6 foot
diameter  drag chute behind us, but I guess it would have been too obvious.


The car has to weight 2080 with the driver in it. So maybe 1880. We have to
 have 4 gallons of 93 octane left to make that weight.

The trans is a Richmond Gear road racing with changeable gear ratios, and
synchronizers. Designed for full size muscle cars. Note the Chevy S-10 bell
housing bolted to the Mazda engine. The other trans is a Saenz dog ring
trans  from Argentina. Very nice. The clutch is (drum roll) a Tilton double
disc 5  1/4". The coaxial throw-out assembly from Coleman. The flywheel is a
cut down  Tilton button made for a Chevy. About 6 1/2" and weighs about 1 1/2
pounds.  The last two engines came from Daryl Drummond, about $14,000.00
each.

I have rebuilt and modified them several times since (twice each season)
These are reliable as a stone shifting at 9,600 RPM. I still own this one.

Here is the car with its clothes on. The "J" bridgeport and a tube stuck
through the lateral gallery that feeds the front stationary gear from a Tube
to  Boss fitting in the front iron.

Here is a pictogram of the oiling system for a dry sump.

Here are two dyno sheets. The one has the lowest RPM I have ever seen a
rotary dynoed.

Lynn E. Hanover

Was that Nissan the 3.1 Liter stright six Lynn?
Hardly fair since the 12A is 2.4 Liters.
The SCCA should be ashamed!

Paul Lamar