A few minor problems for the 13B. One hole was ten thou
off or so but it could be drilled out with no problems.
One cup tab was a bit too long so that could be hacksawed off.
We had a few typical bolt circle problems but easily fixed by
drilling the holes out to 27/64th instead of 10 MM.

Other than that the 13B was usable. The starter hole
was a bit on the small side but I can set it up in my
cheap Chinese mill and bore it out about .020.
The starter hole should be 2.640.

I was working from Tracy's dwg and I should have
checked the dwg against Tracy motor plate which I also have.
The drawings had a few errors and I probably made one or
two my self. The dwg does not match Tracy's plate :)

The RX8 extra bell house bolt was way off by about a half inch so
that is going to require a whole new dwg which I have about done.
I want to make the plates fit both the 13B and the RX8 motor.

Jeff I'll get the  fixed dwg to you in a day or so.


Paul Lamar

Paul
So this is usable. If  you want I can open up the starter hole
here. It
 measures 2.620 on the solid model. I depend on the solid
model for
 geometry for expediency. If you need to digitize the bolt
pattern on the
 housing we can do that. We need absolute numbers. I do not
 know the
 difference between the RX7 and 8.  the half inch hole problem,
does that
 make it unusable??? No worries, we just get it right for the
folks that
 need them...
jeff
I'll ship it back if you want it. I only have one RX8 end housing
 and it is on my RX8 P-port test engine which I don't want to
take apart.
 I think I got it measured fairly accurately.
If you have a 13B end housing that would be a good one to
 digitize.
 The solid model is now fine. I fixed it. Jarrett has it now and
 he is converting it to a Solid Works file for you. I made a
couple of
 other changes while I was at it. After you do it three or four
timesyou get better and faster. The new version is much more
accurate as
 I had been there and done that :) All ribs are now the same
width and
 parallel. We need to drill all the 10 mm holes out to 27/64th
as that
 will ease the bolt circle problem.
No change in the back pattern.
We should look into a spun or pressed bell housing and use
the two
hollow
 dowel pins on the end housing to locate the unit more
accurately. Along
 with a lighter weight gear box of course :) The bolt and spacer
idea is
 less than ideal.
Paul Lamar

Paul

I think when you send me the new geometry I will make a
template, send
it to yo then you can check for fit. I am not in favor of
 making the
holes larger. I can use my machine as a CMM and get the number
exact.  I
did that with the rotor housing and it is perfect.... We save
these master coordinates for all future parts. This should be
done all
around  the block.
I have machined bell housings before. Lots of aluminum chips but
can be
done fairly quick as opposed to finding and getting someone quote,
setup, bid,etc. Lots of time and money..
My guess a billet block of 6061 for a bell housing would be at
least 60
lbs..Al plate is a little over $3.00/lb.  Figure $200 for
material.  It
will machine down to about close to 8  lbs or less. If the
housing is
not too complicated with lots of ribs, this could be machine in
1 day.
More,  obviously for the first article sample, but for any
production  at  all,  $600 to $700 is doable. Eventually get a
cast part , but this
way we could get something out cheaper and sooner...
I agree the bolt and spacer arrangement needs to be fixed....

jeff

No doubt about it that is the ultimate solution. I rejected it in
the past because of the cost. Prices have come way down on NC mill
stuff as a lot of people have the machines payed off.

The problem with sand casting is weight. The foundry has
problems with
anything thinner than .2 inches. Also the cost of sand
castings has
gone way up. NC milling is now more competitive.

Try these until Jarrett gets the SW version out.

Paul Lamar

Paul

Tell Jarrett no need for file conversions anymore. I have a new
 SW2009  seat so all will work directly......

jeff

Great. Thanks Jeff.
I'll bet it will load Rhino native directly :)

Paul Lamar

Paul, I did this over lunch so it's the quick version. I didn't
 put the cups
 on as we know they are strong enough. I just fixed one end where the
 cup goes [the farthest from CL] and the second one I fixed it such
 thatit was still moveable from the first yet fixed in the vertical
 plane [similar
 to how flexible an engine mount 'could' be. The trick here is if I
 make both
 ends fixed [ie cast in concrete] then there is some degree to
 stress that
 is carried via tension between the two fixing points. When I put
 one fixed
 and one fixed in the vertical only ?I think we get a better
 representationof the loads w/ a mount that has midle deflection at
 load. It looks ok still
 to me.. but I haven't spent too much time going over the results.
 I can do
 the 'real deal'  test later tonight but thought this might help in
 the mean time.
Let me know..
Jarrett
That ia much better.
Jeff this is the new design fixed with the RX8
 hole in the right place. I also added a rib on the highly loaded
 left side. The stress level is now very conservative which is what
 I was shooting for.
Thanks Jarett.
Paul Lamar
No problem, do you want me to do one w/ the cups on it.. or are we
good at this point?

Jarrett  [geeze I've got to slow down when I'm typing.. and then
proof read.. sorry about that...]

NO cups needed. We are good. Jeff might need a solid works file.

Paul Lamar


Ok, Jeff, let me know if you do.  Btw those PSRU holes where put in on a 5.875" B.C.
Two holed on the top x 12 holes [30deg OC] Each being 0.25dia.  That sound correct?


Jarrett