Subject: Motor plate fit.
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 9/24/2009, 12:18 AM
To: AAA Put this in the To box



A few minor problems for the 13B. One hole was ten thou
off or so but it could be drilled out with no problems.
One cup tab was a bit too long so that could be hacksawed off.
We had a few typical bolt circle problems but easily fixed by
drilling the holes out to 27/64th instead of 10 MM.

Other than that the 13B was usable. The starter hole
was a bit on the small side but I can set it up in my
cheap Chinese mill and bore it out about .020.
The starter hole should be 2.640.

I was working from Tracy's dwg and I should have
checked the dwg against Tracy motor plate which I also have.
The drawings had a few errors and I probably made one or
two my self. The dwg does not match Tracy's plate :)

The RX8 extra bell house bolt was way off by about a half inch so
that is going to require a whole new dwg which I have about done.
I want to make the plates fit both the 13B and the RX8 motor.

Jeff I'll get the  fixed dwg to you in a day or so.


Paul Lamar

Paul
So this is usable. If  you want I can open up the starter hole
here. It
  measures 2.620 on the solid model. I depend on the solid
 model for
  geometry for expediency. If you need to digitize the bolt
pattern on the
  housing we can do that. We need absolute numbers. I do not
  know the
  difference between the RX7 and 8.  the half inch hole problem,
does that
  make it unusable??? No worries, we just get it right for the
folks that
  need them...
jeff
I'll ship it back if you want it. I only have one RX8 end housing
  and it is on my RX8 P-port test engine which I don't want to
take apart.
  I think I got it measured fairly accurately.
If you have a 13B end housing that would be a good one to
  digitize.
  The solid model is now fine. I fixed it. Jarrett has it now and
  he is converting it to a Solid Works file for you. I made a
couple of
  other changes while I was at it. After you do it three or four
timesyou get better and faster. The new version is much more
accurate as
  I had been there and done that :) All ribs are now the same
width and
  parallel. We need to drill all the 10 mm holes out to 27/64th
as that
  will ease the bolt circle problem.
No change in the back pattern.
We should look into a spun or pressed bell housing and use
 the two
 hollow
  dowel pins on the end housing to locate the unit more
accurately. Along
  with a lighter weight gear box of course :) The bolt and spacer
idea is
  less than ideal.
Paul Lamar

 Paul

 I think when you send me the new geometry I will make a
template, send
 it to yo then you can check for fit. I am not in favor of
  making the
 holes larger. I can use my machine as a CMM and get the number
exact.  I
 did that with the rotor housing and it is perfect.... We save
 these master coordinates for all future parts. This should be
 done all
around  the block.
 I have machined bell housings before. Lots of aluminum chips but
can be
 done fairly quick as opposed to finding and getting someone quote,
 setup, bid,etc. Lots of time and money..
 My guess a billet block of 6061 for a bell housing would be at
least 60
 lbs..Al plate is a little over $3.00/lb.  Figure $200 for
material.  It
 will machine down to about close to 8  lbs or less. If the
housing is
 not too complicated with lots of ribs, this could be machine in
1 day.
 More,  obviously for the first article sample, but for any
production  at  all,  $600 to $700 is doable. Eventually get a
cast part , but this
 way we could get something out cheaper and sooner...
 I agree the bolt and spacer arrangement needs to be fixed....

 jeff

 No doubt about it that is the ultimate solution. I rejected it in
 the past because of the cost. Prices have come way down on NC mill
 stuff as a lot of people have the machines payed off.

 The problem with sand casting is weight. The foundry has
problems with
 anything thinner than .2 inches. Also the cost of sand
 castings has
 gone way up. NC milling is now more competitive.

 Try these until Jarrett gets the SW version out.

 Paul Lamar

Paul

Tell Jarrett no need for file conversions anymore. I have a new
  SW2009  seat so all will work directly......

jeff

Great. Thanks Jeff.
I'll bet it will load Rhino native directly :)

Paul Lamar

Paul, I did this over lunch so it's the quick version. I didn't
  put the cups
  on as we know they are strong enough. I just fixed one end
  where the
  cup goes [the farthest from CL] and the second one I fixed it such
  thatit was still moveable from the first yet fixed in the vertical
  plane [similar
  to how flexible an engine mount 'could' be. The trick here is
  if I
  make both
  ends fixed [ie cast in concrete] then there is some degree to
  stress that
  is carried via tension between the two fixing points. When I put
  one fixed
  and one fixed in the vertical only ?I think we get a better
  representationof the loads w/ a mount that has midle
  deflection at
  load. It looks ok still
  to me.. but I haven't spent too much time going over the results.
  I can do
  the 'real deal'  test later tonight but thought this might
  help in
  the mean time.
Let me know..
Jarrett
That ia much better.
Jeff this is the new design fixed with the RX8
  hole in the right place. I also added a rib on the highly loaded
  left side. The stress level is now very conservative which is what
  I was shooting for.
Thanks Jarett.
Paul Lamar
No problem, do you want me to do one w/ the cups on it.. or are we
 good at this point?

 Jarrett  [geeze I've got to slow down when I'm typing.. and then
 proof read.. sorry about that...]

 NO cups needed. We are good. Jeff might need a solid works file.

 Paul Lamar


Ok, Jeff, let me know if you do.  Btw those PSRU holes where put
  in on
a 5.875" B.C.
Two holed on the top x 12 holes [30deg OC] Each being 0.25dia.  That
sound correct?


Jarrett


Jarrett

  I got the iges...... there where no holes for the psru and no register
  in the back.  All the geom comes in as splines. That make it difficult
  to separate out for machining..do you have in SW a standard set
  made in
  lines and arcs. It's easier to manipulate and takes a lot less memory.
  If you don't' I will make a version here that's cleaner but we
  need to
  get the design absolutely established. send straight up SW from
  now on,
  no more conversions.

  jeff

  Did you try the step file? Jarrett has it in SW and he will send it.

  Paul Lamar


Here's the SW file.. unfortunatly this too has splines [I've yet to see
any that don't when they come over this way..]
On this part [due to it being a basic 2D geometry for machining [2.5D]]
one might as well just switch
it to a dxf/dwg. The file is attached... I don't have the rear register
in there [didn't have time to go back
and look up the dim's for it]. I put the PSRU B.C in but need Paul to
confirm the dim's [about 3 postings
above this one]..

Sorry not a huge help..  :/

Jarrett

I think the splines are when I use the "fillet curve" option.
It ask for a radius but I think it "blends" the curves. One of
the really neat features of Rhino. That is why it does cowling's
and other compound curved shapes so well. It will also blend
surfaces and loft.

Fortunately sldprt is not a text file and does not need to be zipped.

--------------------------------------------------------------

Here is Tracy's dwg on the dims Jarrett.

Paul Lamar

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