I'm using Bruce Turrentine's DVD to overhaul a 20B. On the rear of the
engine there is a counter weight under the flywheel that didn't
appear on
the 13B in Bruce's video. Anyone familiar with this and know how to
remove
this counter weight?
Jay
I think you mean the flex plate for the auto transmission.
The 20B is very similar to the 3rd gen RX7 engines. 1993 to
2003.
For that you will need a gear puller and a way of locking the E-shaft
with a special plate.
Go to this location:
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual
and download the chapter C engine.pdf shop manual:
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/1993FSM/
Here is an excerpt.
Paul Lamar
For the 13B, you can use the six bolts / bolt holes connecting the
flexplate/driveplate to the counterweight.
The 10?mm CW bolt thread pitch is common to many RX7 bolts. You may
want a few that are slightly longer.
- Lock the flex/driveplate
- Loosen the 54mm locknut but leave it on a few threads (so it does
not
fly off and crush your toes, even more important with a flywheel). A
6'
breaker bar extension helps.
Without the stock puller:
- I use pieces of scrap angle iron between the rear iron and the CW
to
push against with bolts in the CW bolt holes. (angle iron placed to
distribute the load)
- Turn the bolts 1/4 turn each in the usual star pattern and it will
pop
right off.
Cheers
Cary
Cary,
What about the front end? I am having a bear of a time getting the
pulley bolt to budge. I made a device that was similar to the Mazda
tool to lock the flywheel from turning and braced the engine with a
stout U-beam, sprayed WD-40 on the bolt and used a four foot pipe
over
the breaker bar. Still no joy. Guess I have to try a longer pipe or
gain a few more pounds huh?
Doug in Japan.
Hi Doug;
I think there is some form of loctite on the pulley bolt as well - I've
had trouble with a few of them.
Try a 6' or 8' pipe extension with a friend.
Good Luck
Cary
Cary,
OK will do. Thanks
Doug in Japan
Cary;
Try heating it with a propane torch. Loctite brakes down at around
500+F.
Tom/norpro
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