I'm using Bruce Turrentine's DVD to overhaul a 20B. On the rear of the
 engine there is a counter weight under the flywheel that didn't appear on
 the 13B in Bruce's video. Anyone familiar with this and know how to
 remove
 this counter weight?

 Jay


 I think you mean the flex plate for the auto transmission.
 The 20B is very similar to the 3rd gen RX7 engines. 1993 to
 2003.

 For that you will need a gear puller and a way of locking the E-shaft
 with a special plate.

 Go to this location:

 http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual

 and download the chapter C engine.pdf shop manual:
 http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/1993FSM/


 Here is an excerpt.

 Paul Lamar


  For the 13B, you can use the six bolts / bolt holes connecting the
  flexplate/driveplate to the counterweight.
  The 10?mm CW bolt thread pitch is common to many RX7 bolts.  You may
  want a few that are slightly longer.

  - Lock the flex/driveplate
  - Loosen the 54mm locknut but leave it on a few threads (so it does not
  fly off and crush your toes, even more important with a flywheel).  A 6'
  breaker bar extension helps.
  Without the stock puller:
  - I use pieces of scrap angle iron between the rear iron and the CW to
  push against with bolts in the CW bolt holes. (angle iron placed to
  distribute the load)
  - Turn the bolts 1/4 turn each in the usual star pattern and it will pop
  right off.

  Cheers
  Cary


  Cary,

  What about the front end?  I am having a bear of a time getting the
  pulley bolt to budge.  I made a device that was similar to the Mazda
  tool to lock the flywheel from turning and braced the engine with a
  stout U-beam, sprayed WD-40 on the bolt and used a four foot pipe over
  the breaker bar.  Still no joy.  Guess I have to try a longer pipe or
  gain a few more pounds huh?


  Doug in Japan.



  That puller did the trick. Thanks a lot.

  Now I'm down to the center housing and the housing on either side of it.
  But
  there is little or no play (engine length wise) in the E shaft. Thus I
  can't
  get either of the remaining housings on the end up and over the E shaft.
  Bruce's DVD shows the shaft moving up and down at least an inch or more. I
  can hardly get mine to move at all.
  Any ideas?


  Jay


  Do you have the front cover off and the thrust bearing removed?

  Paul Lamar

 Jay,

 The 20B utilizes a split shaft.  You're going to have to separate it in
 order to disassemble the engine.  Bob Darrah built a splitter tool from a
 threaded shaft and a 1" thick bar of steel.  The threaded shaft will need
 to
 match the threads in the #1 lobe on the crank, 18mm if I recall correctly.
 Thread the shaft into the lobe, slide the 1" bar over the other end of the
 threaded shaft until it fits snug against the nose of the eccentric, put a
 nut on the threaded shaft to tighten it all down.  You may want to use a
 soft aluminum or brass spacer so you don't bugger up the end of the
 eccentric.  Tighten the nut until it cocks the 1" bar a little, then tap
 the
 other end of the bar with a hammer and it should come right apart, at least
 that's how it has worked for me twice.  Now you can finish disassembling
 the
 engine.  Remember the sequence for when you are ready to re-assemble it.

 Mark S.

 "Do you have the front cover off and the thrust bearing removed?"

 Yes I do Paul.

 I didn't realize the 20B had a split E shaft that certainly explains why I
 stuck where I am though.
 If I'm reading correctly the tool you mention simply pulls the E shaft
 apart, not unlike a pulley puller would?

 Jay

 What is confusing me Jay is this sentence.

 "Now I'm down to the center housing [?] and the housing [rotor?] on either
 side of it."

 Here is one suggested standard nomenclature.
 Where are you stuck?

 Paul Lamar

Jay,

Did you see the pictures I attached?  To answer your question, no, it is not
a typical puller.  But it would not be too difficult to fabricate one
yourself as my buddy did (see pics).  You don't want to risk messing up the
e-$haft.  Those things don't grow on trees, you know.  ;-)

Mark