Paul,

 I just ordered the 89 rotor housing so when it gets here I will send them
 plus the sealing plates for P Porting. Â How many housings do you have so
 far?

 Joe Berki
 Limo EZ

 We have six. Yours will be eight and somebody said they would send three
 more.

 Paul Lamar


I got to figure out how to take it apart. Then I will send mine.
Blake

--
Blake C. Lewis

I assume you have the shop manuals. One mistake frequently made is to take
the flywheel off first. The screw holding the pulley on the front of the
engine should be removed first. The flywheel must be immobilized to getthe
screw off the front of the e-shaft.
I at first tried an angle iron and bent it. I then got a 3 inch channelsix
foot long.

The right tools are important. You will need a  2-1/8" 54 mm socket andyou
will need a 3/4 inch breaker bar with a 6 foot extension or a good 3/4 drive
impact wrench. Harbor freight is a good source as you won't be using these
things that often. You will also need a 5 pound sledge hammer minimum.
Assuming of course you have a manual transmission engine.

If not a manual you will need a special gear puller than can be made or
bought from Mears Motors. Once you get the screw off the front and the
flywheel or counter weight off the e-shaft the rest is trivial and can be
done in less than 5 minutes.

It will take a day to clean the rotors each so I would farm them out toan
automotive machine shop and get a quote ahead of time because they don't
know what they are getting into :)


Paul Lamar



Paul, Another source for the 54 MM 3/4 drive socket that fits the flywheel
nut is northern hydraulics. It is a shelf item priced $10.99.I press off
the counterweight using the threaded holes in the counterweight  and some
longer bolts bearing against some flat bar pieces under the counterweighton
the end housing. I don't remember the size of the bolts but they were grade
8 from fastenall. I store my engines vertically on  roll around engine
stands attached to these same threaded holes in the counterweight so the
right bolts are always available. Have you tried spray on oven cleaner to
clean the engine rotors and end housings? ust spray a bunch on and wrap the
part in kitchen shrink wrap so it doesn't dry out. Let it sit all day then
wipe it off with paper towels. If it doesn't wipe right off you can use the
pot scrubber brush from the kitchen sink.A non kitchen related easy cleanup
is to get some muratic acid from the local ace hardware and slosh it around
in motorcycle gas tanks when they have rust accumulated from sitting up in
the garage. It takes about three minutes. Pour the acid back in the same jug
to use next time and nutralize the residual in the tank with baking soda.
You still have to clean the carburetors but only once. This also works on
garden tillers and riding lawn mowers which we run out of gas for winter
storage.

george grimes

Doing it that way puts a lot of load on the thrust bearings.
The big hammer trick does not bother them as the 30 pound mass of the
flywheel absorbs the blow.

I have not tried the oven cleaner trick but it sounds like it
should work great. I think you might want to tape or mask off
the rotor bearing.

Paul Lamar