Well I got everything off the engine and was ready with my 1/2" Air
hammer and a 19mm socket to take off the Front bolt... I Hammered
and Hammered and Hammered... No Joy.  So back to the tool   store,
purchased the 2 1/8" socket but could only find it in a  1/2  drive.
I also picked up a 3/4" breaker bar and a 6'   pipe.  Back home...
Took a 1/2" aluminum plate and built a  tool  to lock the E-Shaft from
turning (That worked out great)  and with a  little help from my son,
I tried the front bolt  again... A  little grunt and off it came... I
moved to the back  and put on the 2  1/8" socket, which was a 1/2"
drive and added  an adapter for the  3/4" breaker bar... Put on the 6'
pipe and  gave it a try... There  was movement and it was soon
apparent  that it was the 1/2" drive  twisting and fracturing.  So I
had an older 1/2" breaker bar  and decided to give that a go...  Same
results more broken  hardware... Then a said what the  heck, I have
this really old 1/2  drive torque wrench that I  haven't used in
years, gave it a  try... Guess what, I don't  have that really old torque
wrench  anymore.  So, today it  is off to sears to see if I can find
either a better 3/4 to 1/2  adapter or a 2 1/8" socket with a 3/4
drive.  I'm determined to  get that thing off and get these  housings
in the mail to you  Paul by Monday.

Mike  C.

ROFL old story  :):):):)

Paul  Lamar

Mike,
Try  pushing the e-shaft to  the flywheel end and smacking the nut a  few
times. A helper folding the  shaft rear ward and a socket  or heavy
wall pipe that clears the thread and  a 5# hammer  should do. This
helps break the "set" on the   threads.

Dale Davies

Unless the engine is going  back into a street "beater" car:

One must assume that an  unwashed individual has been beating on the
flywheel, flywheel nut  and or the counter weight. Prying on these
parts with all manor of  torture devices is a very popular pastime.

In every case the  thrust bearings and hardened thrust faces and
plate in the thrust  control assembly may have been damaged. Feel
lucky punk? Discard  all  but the thrust plate. Braze the thrust
plate to the bottom  of the oil squirt  can. This keeps the damn
thing upright for  years at a time. If those parts are  left hanging
on a nail in  the shop, they eventually will find their way into
another  engine.

Use the proper puller to remove flywheels and balance  weights with
no such damage. For aircraft engines use only new  thrust parts.

Note the thrust washer from the back of a  front  counterweight.
Notice the thrust plate has been pulled  so hard it became a  conical
shape.

Lynn E.  Hanover

Lynn,
You should not jump to  conclusions about people being "unwashed punks"
until you have gotten to  know them. What I was trying to convey was a few
smart raps to shock the  set on the nut. I was not condoning wanton beating
of the parts. Another  method would be to use a cold chisel on the flats of
the nut all the way  around on the six flats. This will expand the nut
causing it to loosen  slightly. My first response enables re-use of the nut.
A cold chisel or  drill definitely require replacement. I would expect the
heat trick to be  the same; replace nut.
I am a Journeyman mechanic with both  Heavy Duty and Automotive tickets and
worked as a mechanic for 25 years. I  am now a journeyman Instrument
technician. I worked on everything from MG  Midgets to crawler tractors with
1710CID V12 engines. I know how and when  something needs some major force
and when finese is  required.
On this thread, there are many people who do not  have the special tools to
do a job. They are trying to get by on minimal  expense. That is why running
over to the Snap-on dealer is not mentioned. I  take it that you have ALL
the
proper tools on a shelf, which is what I  would expect for someone who is
rebuilding these engines regularly. The  people on here would likely not
mind
that expense if they were able to  recoup their cost over a lot of
overhauls.
That is why I tried to convey a  way to save as many parts as possible.
Thrust washers should be a no  brainer replacement especially if the engine
is from a manual transmission  car.
I hope this is cleared up with no hard  feelings.

Dale Davies





Well, OK. The "unwashed" is from British controlled India in the 1800's.
The "Feel lucky punk" is from the movie "Dirty Harry" neither is/was directed
at  anyone. My humor is far too dry it seems. While I'm here, the locking
washer  that is to be bent up onto a nut flat on assembly, is too soft, and
allows some  torque to be lost, so I never use them. However pay close
attention to the pin  that locates this washer. It must be ground away if you
leave out the washer.

Lynn E. Hanover