Well I got everything off the engine and was ready with my 1/2" Air
hammer and a 19mm socket to take off the Front bolt... I Hammered
and Hammered and Hammered... No Joy. So back to the tool store,
purchased the 2 1/8" socket but could only find it in a 1/2 drive.
I also picked up a 3/4" breaker bar and a 6' pipe. Back home...
Took a 1/2" aluminum plate and built a tool to lock the E-Shaft from
turning (That worked out great) and with a little help from my son,
I tried the front bolt again... A little grunt and off it came... I
moved to the back and put on the 2 1/8" socket, which was a 1/2"
drive and added an adapter for the 3/4" breaker bar... Put on the 6'
pipe and gave it a try... There was movement and it was soon
apparent that it was the 1/2" drive twisting and fracturing. So I
had an older 1/2" breaker bar and decided to give that a go... Same
results more broken hardware... Then a said what the heck, I have
this really old 1/2 drive torque wrench that I haven't used in years,
gave it a try... Guess what, I don't have that really old torque
wrench anymore. So, today it is off to sears to see if I can find
either a better 3/4 to 1/2 adapter or a 2 1/8" socket with a 3/4
drive. I'm determined to get that thing off and get these housings
in the mail to you Paul by Monday.
Mike C.
ROFL old story :):):):)
Paul Lamar
Mike,
Try pushing the e-shaft to the flywheel end and smacking the nut a few
times. A helper folding the shaft rear ward and a socket or heavy wall pipe
that clears the thread and a 5# hammer should do. This helps break the
"set"
on the threads.
Dale Davies
Unless the engine is going back into a street "beater" car:
One must assume that an unwashed individual has been beating on the
flywheel, flywheel nut and or the counter weight. Prying on these parts with all
manor of torture devices is a very popular pastime.
In every case the thrust bearings and hardened thrust faces and plate in
the thrust control assembly may have been damaged. Feel lucky punk? Discard
all but the thrust plate. Braze the thrust plate to the bottom of the oil
squirt can. This keeps the damn thing upright for years at a time. If those
parts are left hanging on a nail in the shop, they eventually will find
their way into another engine.
Use the proper puller to remove flywheels and balance weights with no such
damage. For aircraft engines use only new thrust parts.
Note the thrust washer from the back of a front counterweight. Notice the
thrust plate has been pulled so hard it became a conical shape.
Lynn E. Hanover
Mike
Try Sears Craftsman model 875-188992 impact wrench w/ a 1/2" female to 3/4" male adapter
(Stronger than the 1/2"male to 3/4" female adapter).
Other models did not work for me but this one did the job on 3 different engines that I
have. Check the reverse torque specs on other models if that model is not available and
get the highest rated reverse torque. Bring it back if it doesn't work.
John Prendergast
ACRE NL web site.
http://www.rotaryeng.net
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