Well I got everything off the engine and was ready with my 1/2" Air
 hammer and a 19mm socket to take off the Front bolt... I Hammered
 and Hammered and Hammered... No Joy.  So back to the tool  store,
 purchased the 2 1/8" socket but could only find it in a 1/2  drive.
 I also picked up a 3/4" breaker bar and a 6'  pipe.  Back home...
 Took a 1/2" aluminum plate and built a tool  to lock the E-Shaft from
 turning (That worked out great) and with a  little help from my son,
 I tried the front bolt again... A  little grunt and off it came... I
 moved to the back and put on the 2  1/8" socket, which was a 1/2"
 drive and added an adapter for the  3/4" breaker bar... Put on the 6'
 pipe and gave it a try... There  was movement and it was soon
 apparent that it was the 1/2" drive  twisting and fracturing.  So I
 had an older 1/2" breaker bar  and decided to give that a go... Same
 results more broken  hardware... Then a said what the heck, I have
 this really old 1/2  drive torque wrench that I haven't used in
 years, gave it a  try... Guess what, I don't have that really old torque
 wrench  anymore.  So, today it is off to sears to see if I can find
 either a better 3/4 to 1/2 adapter or a 2 1/8" socket with a 3/4
 drive.  I'm determined to get that thing off and get these  housings
 in the mail to you Paul by Monday.

 Mike  C.

 ROFL old story :):):):)

 Paul  Lamar

 Mike,
 Try pushing the e-shaft to  the flywheel end and smacking the nut a few
 times. A helper folding the  shaft rear ward and a socket or heavy
 wall pipe that clears the thread and  a 5# hammer should do. This
 helps break the "set" on the  threads.

 Dale Davies

 Unless the engine is going back into a street "beater" car:

 One must assume that an unwashed individual has been beating on the
 flywheel, flywheel nut and or the counter weight. Prying on these
 parts with all manor of torture devices is a very popular pastime.

 In every case the thrust bearings and hardened thrust faces and
 plate in the thrust control assembly may have been damaged. Feel
 lucky punk? Discard all  but the thrust plate. Braze the thrust
 plate to the bottom of the oil squirt  can. This keeps the damn
 thing upright for years at a time. If those parts are  left hanging
 on a nail in the shop, they eventually will find their way into
 another engine.

 Use the proper puller to remove flywheels and balance weights with
 no such damage. For aircraft engines use only new thrust parts.

 Note the thrust washer from the back of a front  counterweight.
 Notice the thrust plate has been pulled so hard it became a  conical
 shape.

 Lynn E. Hanover

  Lynn,
  You should not jump to conclusions about people being "unwashed punks"
until you have gotten to know them. What I was trying to convey was a few
smart raps to shock the set on the nut. I was not condoning wanton beating
of the parts. Another method would be to use a cold chisel on the flats of
the nut all the way around on the six flats. This will expand the nut
causing it to loosen slightly. My first response enables re-use of the nut.
A cold chisel or drill definitely require replacement. I would expect the
heat trick to be the same; replace nut.
  I am a Journeyman mechanic with both Heavy Duty and Automotive tickets and
worked as a mechanic for 25 years. I am now a journeyman Instrument
technician. I worked on everything from MG Midgets to crawler tractors with
1710CID V12 engines. I know how and when something needs some major force
and when finese is required.
  On this thread, there are many people who do not have the special tools to
do a job. They are trying to get by on minimal expence. That is why running
over to the Snap-on dealer is not mentioned. I take it that you have ALL the
proper tools on a shelf, which is what I would expect for someone who is
rebuilding these engines regularly. The people on here would likely not mind
that expence if they were able to recoup their cost over a lot of overhauls.
That is why I tried to convey a way to save as many parts as possible.
Thrust washers should be a no brainer replacement especially if the engine
is from a manual transmission car.
  I hope this is cleared up with no hard feelings.

DAle Davies


Dale,

Two days ago I got the nut off the front pulley using a two meter long
pipe over the 3/4" breaker bar. Like you I also made a custom front
plate to lock the flywheel from turning butI used steel with welded on
spacer pipes.  A little overboard, I know.   In any case even with that
long lever the bolt was a bear to take off.  I had to bolt a U beam to
front of the engine to prevent it from flipping and bounce on the lever
a bit.  It broke lose after the second bounce and offered lots of
resistance all the way out.  As Cary mentioned it had some locking
material on the threads.    The flywheel nut by contrast came off easily.

Doug in Japan