When I disassembled my 20B last week, I was pleased that all the rotor
housings were in good shape and there was no evidence of overheating. All
apex seals moved freely and I didn't see any significant problems except
one......The front side housing had a spot the size of a dime that was
deeply
pitted as if a single drop of water sat on the iron for a long time
causing
it to rust and pit, although there wasn't any rust. I'm not comfortable
reusing it, so I'm going to get a new one !!! So the question
arises....since
I have to replace it anyway, should I just get a new 20B front side
housing and modify the water pump (which is still a big heavy beast), or
is it
possible to just use another parts combination? In addition, I would
also
really like to use the RX8 Rotors if they will work because they are
lighter
and have a 10:1 compression which would be great for my normally
aspirated
application?.......
I remember recently reading a post from someone in this Group who is
building a 20B with RX-8 Rotors, Front Cover, Water Pump and CAS. I
remember
him making the statement that the RX8 CAS is much better (but I don't
know
why that is). Paul, do you know who that was and if he has been
successful
at making everything work? And what is better about the RX8 CAS?
Thanks,
Don
I think you can use a 3rd gen RX7 front housing. Maybe even a RX8 front
housing. Check
with Mazdatrix on that. They sell them as well. Ask them about the RX8
rotors while you
are at it and report back what they say.
562-426-7960 For Parts Ordering, and General info
562-426-4460 For Local Service and Parts
Paul Lamar
--
OK, I'll try to give them a call sometime soon.
Do you have any idea about the RX8 CAS?
Don
Yes it is very simple. We have fooled with them a lot.
Here are a couple of pictures of Mark's installation on his
3 rotor of the RX8 sensor.
A hall Effect sensor does the same thing and it is a lot cheaper.
Also a ABS sensor will also work the same and it is only $16 at Pep Boys.
What kind of EFI system are you planning?
Paul Lamar
Paul,
The bracket shown in the attached pictures didn't work. Turns out the CAS
bracket needs to be made of non-ferrous material, not 4130 as I did. Once I
duplicated the bracket in aluminum, the CAS signal cleared up. Who would
have thought???
Mark S.
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