Guys,
 I took apart my motor to send the housings for p-port mod. I think I
 am the third owner since rebuild.
 It was one of the generator motors that I heard some of you guys talk
 about a few years ago.
 The combustion chamber has AT fluid in it and those parts seem to be
 in good shape.
 The builder must have tested it with water (not antifreeze) because
 the lower water jacket was full of rust/sand.
 There is one section on the center housing that the corrosion got real
 close to the o-ring seal. It is too bad the housings otherwise look
 brand new.
 Here is a picture: "
 http://web.missouri.edu/~lewisbc/13b/parts/corrosion.jpg".
 Also take a look at the bolts. Some of them are fairly bad too:
 "http://web.missouri.edu/~lewisbc/13b/parts/bolts.jpg"
 I was very careful and I am pretty sure I didn't drop/lose it. I came
 up a apex spring short. The little one of the two.
 "http://web.missouri.edu/~lewisbc/13b/parts/ceramic_seal.jpg"
 Here is a picture of one of my seal boxes.
 "http://web.missouri.edu/~lewisbc/13b/parts/sealbox.jpg"
 Here some pictures that Dean sent me when I bought it: "
 http://web.missouri.edu/~lewisbc/13b/".

 If anyone cares to drop an extra spring in the mail to me, please do.
 What do you guys think of the center housing corrosion and on the bolts?
 What do you guys think about the seals? One piece and no corner piece.
 --
 Blake C. Lewis



 Blake, IMHO the tension bolts ae a throw away. The good news is that two
 weeks ago someone was selling several sets of new alloy RX7 bolts on
E-bay.
 They were pricy but upgrades usually are. About the side housing, I would
 not disqualify it although care in cleaning it seems prudent. I would use
 the baking soda air blasting since it would remove no metal but clean the
 part to where the antifreeze will protect future degradation. Tape up the
 chrome liner surface with several layers of masking tape. The area which
 needs close inspection on the irons is the side on the inner water seal
ring
 right at the intake port which has been prone to cracking or more rarely
 having a piece fall off into the intake port. The amount of material
 remaining after cleanup of the rust on your housing looks to be wider
than
 the edge found at the intake port. The gas pressure at the intake port is
 lower, however the main force on the "O" ring lands is the hydraulic
 pressure from deforming the round seal into it's rectangular operating
 shape. If your side housing tests good for flatness that is a big plus in
 its favor, however if is needs lapped that will do away with most of the
 surface imperfections. I would not however lap a good housing to make the
 rust look better because it is gas nitrided for a wear surface and the
depth
 of the nitriding is minimal. Check e-bay for loose individual parts like
 housings and seal kits, just search "mazda rotary"

 george grimes

    __________________
GEORGE

ON HARBOR FREIGHT NEW CATALOGUE THEY DO HAVE THE BAKING SODA BLASTER TOOL
A 10LBS AND A 15LBS PART 65902-1CXH FOR $99.99 AND 66742-1CXH FOR $129.00

IT SHOULD BE ON THEIR WEB SITE



Jean Prudhomme


A little cheaper
http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/

John