Is there any reason I can't put the oil filter between the oil pump and
 oil cooler?
 That way I can mount the filter on the firewall and use a large one along
 with an oil accumulator since my oil pan is so small. Heat might be an
 issue.

 Doug in Japan

 No I think that will work. The pressure the oil cooler sees will
 be reduced somewhat. I have no record of anybody doing that before.

 BTW every time you pump oil through a right angle at high flow rate
 you add heat to the oil and reduce the pressure. You can eliminated
 two of them by taking oil directly out of the front end housing.
 This is a Lyn Hanover modification. Rumor has it it will reduce
 the oil temp by 10 or 20 F. Use a straight thread tap and O ring
 fitting. A pipe tap could crack the front housing.

 Paul Lamar

 Hi Doug;
 Filtering before the oil cooler is preferable if the cooler can handle
 the pressure - you probably want at least 150 psi rated for cold
 northern starts.
 Look at 3rd gen or Rx8 coolers.
 For oil filters, Lynn explicitly recommended against certain brands such
 as fram (that is another topic)
 I believe he also recommended synthetic straight weight 40 weight oil in
 the sump + 2stroke pre-mix in the fuel, unless you fly in the frigid
 northern climates in winter like here.
 Cheers
 Cary

 For others:
 #1 is the standard rear oil inlet
 #2 is a racing mod to provide additional oil flow to the front main
 bearing (this will interfere with side mount alternators).
 #3 new oil pump outlet. (replaces #4 and several 90degree oil passage bends)
 #4 original oil pump outlet. It is capped in this image to allow output
 from the new outlet #3 above to reduce the number of 90degree bends.


 Cary,


 Thanks. I recently came across this Fluidyne oil cooler which I can
 mount up out of the way from the plugs. The single flow through will
 reduce oil backpressure a little.

 http://www.customcarscentral.com/fludb30618-universal-all-makes.html


 I don't see anything in my notes about recommended filters. I would
 appreciate a suggestion.

 Doug in Japan

 Size - 21x5.875x3.''; Dry Weight - 12lbs; Fittings -
 (2) AN-12 & (2) AN-6 & (1) 3/8'' FNPT; Oil Capacity - 1.21Qts

 That looks near identical in size to the 2nd gen RX7 oil cooler.
 Do they have any real heat transfer data available other than
 "it worked in Buba's NASCAR racer"? :)

 Paul Lamar

Hi Doug;
I think Lynn last mentioned twinned K&N HP-3001 filters with high flow
and burst plus good filtering.
He previously used NAPA (WIX) 51515 which also has good numbers.

Lynn mentioned using setrab evaporators with a 200psi min rating.
14 GPM is about what a 13B flows at 6k rpm.
The oil cooler may look like Bubba just before it pops ;)

To remove the difficult brass oil injectors you might try a 50/50
ATF-acetone mix. Wish I had known this many broken bolts ago.

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250660&sid=eee793f63491388f4697042c7bfda603


I forgot to mention that new oil inlets such as #2 (in particular) in
the engine pictures above have very little meat on Rx7 13B's. Plenty on
12A's. Haven't done the mod on RX8s. RX7 13B's required a bottoming
tap to get enough usable threads.

Cheers
Cary

-----------------------------------------------------------------

What do you think of using that 50/50 acetone ATF mixture on
stuck apex seals?

I would stick with Setrabe oil coolers as we have had oil coolers
from other suppliers split and in one or two cases cause an inflight
fire. I know these Setrabs work. Don't cut corners on this by using
coolers designed for other purposes. The engineers know what they
are doing. One of the big issues is the heat transfer rate from
the oil to the metal. Low viscosity oils cool better.

BTW Cary your PC clock is off. If the battery is dead you can
set the clock from time to time in Windows I think.

Paul Lamar