OK Paul, another stupid question:

I purchased one of Tracy's engine rebuild kits for my 20B.  It came  with
"competition" Rotor Oil Control Ring Springs and they are color  coded as
follows:

Qty. 3 - Outer "Competition"- powder blue
Qty. 3 - Inner - Blue

Qty. 3 - Outer "Competition"- Ivory (looks yellow to me)
Qty. 3 - Inner - White


Is there any easy way to tell where the various colored springs go?
I have tried to use the info on both the Mazdatrix website
(_http://www.mazdatrix.com/b3.htm_ (http://www.mazdatrix.com/b3.htm) ) and  Bruce's
video to sort it out, but I still can't figure it  out. Tracy's not sure
either.

My understanding is that the 20B engine is basically a 13B with an
additional
rotor stacked on the front.  I  therefore assumed that if I initially
ignore the  "additional front rotor", that the remaining rear and middle
rotors of the 20B would be exactly like the 13b rotor arrangement.  Is  this
a correct assumption??   I then tryed to use  the instructions from the
mazdatrix website to arrange the oil  control
ring springs on those two rotors in the same manner described  for the 13B.
When I did it in this manner, I was left with one of each  color springs
to put on the 3rd rotor (the additional front rotor which is  unique to the
20B) and this seems odd to me.

The mazdatrix website  states that the front 13B rotor (my center rotor)
gets the White and  Ivory (competition) springs.......thus two white
and  two ivory  springs.  That leaves one of each remaining since I got
3 of  each.

The mazdatrix website states that the rear 13B rotor (also my rear  rotor)
gets the Blue and Powder Blue (competition) springs.......thus  two
blue and  two powder springs, and again one of each now  remains since I
got 3 of
each colored spring.

So now I have one  of every colored spring left which would make the spring

arrangement very different for the remaining rotor (ie. every groove on
this
rotor would have a different color spring.).   It  doesn't seem right
that this would be the case and this is why I'm  Asking for help.  Where
did I go  wrong?

Don


I have no idea. If it were me I would leave them out of an aircraft
engine all together. Oil scraper rings just  cause friction, heat
and wear. I am in the process of building an engine without them
to test the idea.

Mazda had to do it as without them the engine acted like a radial
engine with oil accumulating in the lower chamber. On start up
huge clouds of smoke would come out of the exhaust. No worse than
an AT6 engine however :)

I had a Cosmo I drove for years with melted oil control O rings.
No big deal. When it was running there was no hint of oil smoke
and it did not burn a lot of oil anyway. Of course the scrapper
rings were still in there. I am having the engine assembled
without the scraper rings just to see what will happen on
the dyno. I feel they are not really needed.

Paul Lamar