Greetings all

I just took  possession of a  Renesis, which I hope will grace the
back of
my Aerocanard.

Has anybody  considered, (or done) eliminating the thermostat housing and
making a plate with tapped holes for outlets and inlets (for  AN
fittings) to
be  bolted, on the  engine, where the housing once lived?

No thermostat will  be used.


Rich

Some people have I  am sure. It is good idea as cowl
flaps to control the engine  temperature will give you
more miles per gallon :) That lump  weighs alot as well.

What tools do you have  available?
A cross cut saw with a carbide blade  will
do a nice job on 1/2 aluminum plate.
Then  use a high quality hole saw in a drill press
to drill some 1  3/8" or 1 1/2" holes in the plate.
Then have some .065 wall  short Al tubes tig welded in.

Don't forget the hose barb  on the tubes as there
is up to 50 pounds of force trying to  pull the
hose off the barb due to cooling system  pressure.
Hose clamps alone do not cut it.

Perhaps we can talk Jeff into doing one in billet.
It would  look great. Good idea to have it anodized
to cut the  corrosion. I'll put an add on the web site
for it  Jeff.

How many people want wiggins  couplings?
Rough estimate on cost would be $40  each.

Paul Lamar

Paul

I'm  listening and would happy to help............just need to know what
is needed exactly.

jeff

The RX8 water pump housing  is built into the front cover and they
are ten times more open   than the 2nd and 3rd gen pumps. This
cuts the pump HP required and  still keeps a high water flow
velocity in the block to insure good  heat transfer from
the metal to the coolant.

We need a  simple adapter to bolt to the side of the front
cover and transition  to two hose barbs which I think
are 1.5 inch OD. Stock car hose.  However I recommend
the stuff use in truck engines which is blue  silicone.

I can do a 3D for you in the next couple of  days
with dims. The flat plate would be 3 inches
wide and  4.5 inches high.

Paul Lamar

Paul

Go ahead and work  something up, I'll take a look............

jeff


Here is what  I have in mind. I would make two styles.
Just the flange for people that  wanted to weld on
90 or 180 degree bends and the full unit with the
hose  barbs.

If you want to do this I will loan you my RX8 front
cover and  you can send it back when you are done getting
the dimensions and  pictures.

Paul Lamar


Looks beautiful,

Don't we need a port for heater water??

It might also not be a bad idea to have another port from the header tank
to prevent cavitation. (perhaps teed into the upper tube (or am I upside
down?)

Rich

All suggestion appreciated. Maybe provision for two temp sensors,
one out of the block and one into the pump as well as
a pressure sensor port. Also extending it down a couple
of inches to block off the metering pump area.

I'll redraw it as soon as we get some more input.

Paul Lamar

Paul

when you put together the design think in terms of it's ease of
machineability....if this was a  block type manifold with threaded
nipples from Earl's or whomever, then it could get together very quick....

trying to sneak long End Mills between the 2 large nipple with the
surrounding detent on the end is tough not to mention the large amount
of material to remove.......just a thought..

jeff


Good point.
Jeff, you are the final authority.

We would need to straight thread hose barbs 1.5 inch OD.
I'll see what McMaster sells.


Paul Lamar