Greetings all

 I just took possession of a Renesis, which I hope will grace the
 back of
 my Aerocanard.

 Has anybody considered, (or done) eliminating the thermostat housing and
 making a plate with tapped holes for outlets and inlets (for AN
 fittings) to
 be bolted, on the engine, where the housing once lived?

 No thermostat will be used.


 Rich

 Some people have I am sure. It is good idea as cowl
 flaps to control the engine temperature will give you
 more miles per gallon :) That lump weighs alot as well.

 What tools do you have available?
 A cross cut saw with a carbide blade will
 do a nice job on 1/2 aluminum plate.
 Then use a high quality hole saw in a drill press
 to drill some 1 3/8" or 1 1/2" holes in the plate.
 Then have some .065 wall short Al tubes tig welded in.

 Don't forget the hose barb on the tubes as there
 is up to 50 pounds of force trying to pull the
 hose off the barb due to cooling system pressure.
 Hose clamps alone do not cut it.

 Perhaps we can talk Jeff into doing one in billet.
 It would look great. Good idea to have it anodized
 to cut the corrosion. I'll put an add on the web site
 for it Jeff.

 How many people want wiggins couplings?
 Rough estimate on cost would be $40 each.

 Paul Lamar

 Paul

 I'm listening and would happy to help............just need to know what
 is needed exactly.

 jeff

 The RX8 water pump housing is built into the front cover and they
 are ten times more open than the 2nd and 3rd gen pumps. This
 cuts the pump HP required and still keeps a high water flow
 velocity in the block to insure good heat transfer from
 the metal to the coolant.

 We need a simple adapter to bolt to the side of the front
 cover and transition to two hose barbs which I think
 are 1.5 inch OD. Stock car hose. However I recommend
 the stuff use in truck engines which is blue silicone.

 I can do a 3D for you in the next couple of days
 with dims. The flat plate would be 3 inches
 wide and 4.5 inches high.

 Paul Lamar

 Paul

 Go ahead and work something up, I'll take a look............

 jeff


 Here is what I have in mind. I would make two styles.
 Just the flange for people that wanted to weld on
 90 or 180 degree bends and the full unit with the
 hose barbs.

 If you want to do this I will loan you my RX8 front
 cover and you can send it back when you are done getting
 the dimensions and pictures.

 Paul Lamar


 Looks beautiful,

 Don't we need a port for heater water??

 It might also not be a bad idea to have another port from the header tank
 to prevent cavitation. (perhaps teed into the upper tube (or am I upside
 down?)

 Rich

 All suggestion appreciated. Maybe provision for two temp sensors,
 one out of the block and one into the pump as well as
 a pressure sensor port. Also extending it down a couple
 of inches to block off the metering pump area.

 I'll redraw it as soon as we get some more input.

 Paul Lamar

 Paul

 when you put together the design think in terms of it's ease of
 machineability....if this was a block type manifold with threaded
 nipples from Earl's or whomever, then it could get together very quick....

 trying to sneak long End Mills between the 2 large nipple with the
 surrounding detent on the end is tough not to mention the large amount
 of material to remove.......just a thought..

 jeff


 Good point.
 Jeff, you are the final authority.

 We would need to straight thread hose barbs 1.5 inch OD.
 I'll see what McMaster sells.


 Paul Lamar


 Some folks will want a cabin heater tap, some won't, and some
 people may want the option to have it later. Maybe make
 all of the plates the same with tapped holes
 (for fitting barbed nipples) for the heater and
 commercially available tapped plugs to block
 them off for those who don't want them.
 Commonality and flexibility, a win/win.

 Mark. W

 This one is inch and half thick so you have plenty
 of room to drill and tap half a dozen ports.

 Paul Lamar

 I take it that none of this is applicable to the 13b block.
 C. Smith

 You are right. You may need to cut down the 2nd gen 13B pump
 to fit under the cowl so we have a different procedure
 for doing that. It also increases the water flow
 by reducing some restrictions in the plumbing. Let me
 know if you want to see that.

 BTW Jeff, I had another idea for the RX8 version and that is
 adding a filler neck for a stock 30 psi pressure cap.

 We have had trouble with the welded versions in the past.

 Paul Lamar

                        
Paul,

Could we please see the solution reworking the 2nd gen 13b water pump housing to achieve better flow and reduced height.  Thanks.

Bill Cooley

Here it is. Look these over and feel free to ask questions

Paul Lamar