OK Paul, another stupid question:

I purchased one of Tracy's engine rebuild kits for my 20B.  It came  with
"competition" Rotor Oil Control Ring Springs and they are color  coded as
follows:

Qty. 3 - Outer "Competition"- powder blue
Qty. 3 - Inner - Blue

Qty. 3 - Outer "Competition"- Ivory (looks yellow to me)
Qty. 3 - Inner - White


Is there any easy way to tell where the various colored springs go?
I have tried to use the info on both the Mazdatrix website
(_http://www.mazdatrix.com/b3.htm_ (http://www.mazdatrix.com/b3.htm) )
and
Bruce's
video to sort it out, but I still can't figure it  out. Tracy's not sure
either.

My understanding is that the 20B engine is basically a 13B with an
additional
rotor stacked on the front.  I  therefore assumed that if I initially
ignore the  "additional front rotor", that the remaining rear and middle
rotors of the 20B would be exactly like the 13b rotor arrangement.  Is
this
a correct assumption??   I then tryed to use  the instructions from the
mazdatrix website to arrange the oil  control
ring springs on those two rotors in the same manner described  for the
13B.
When I did it in this manner, I was left with one of each  color springs
to put on the 3rd rotor (the additional front rotor which is  unique to
the
20B) and this seems odd to me.

The mazdatrix website  states that the front 13B rotor (my center rotor)
gets the White and  Ivory (competition) springs.......thus two white
and  two ivory  springs.  That leaves one of each remaining since I got
3 of  each.

The mazdatrix website states that the rear 13B rotor (also my rear
rotor)
gets the Blue and Powder Blue (competition) springs.......thus  two
blue and  two powder springs, and again one of each now  remains since I
got 3 of
each colored spring.

So now I have one  of every colored spring left which would make the
spring

arrangement very different for the remaining rotor (ie. every groove on
this
rotor would have a different color spring.).   It  doesn't seem right
that this would be the case and this is why I'm  Asking for help.  Where
did I go  wrong?

Don


---------------------------------------------------------------
The "white" and the "yellow"  are the came thing. the "B;ue" is the
opposite of the white.

The collors show "Handedness" One color indicates front of rotor springs.
The other color is for the back (flywheel side) of the rotor. Any rebuild
book will say which is which.

In used engines the color dots are long gone.

The spring has a rounded end that fits into a shallow hole in the bottom of
the seal groove.
The other end of the spring has a sharp square end that engages one of the
notches in the back of the seal. This is to prevent the seal fron rotating
backwards in the groove from drag as the rotor spins.

So, to identify the spring for any rotor face, mark the rotor with a marker
as to its direction of rotation, on both sides. And mark the front and rear
of each rotor.
In every case for every rebuild.

Keep in mind that in some cases the rotor will have a gear on the front,
and on some rotors  the gear is on the rear.

In a two rotor the front side of the front rotor (number one) has a gear on
it. The front side of the rear rotor has no gear. So you mark everything.

drop any spring into a groove (rounded end down) and rotate the spring in
the OPPOSITE direction to rotor rotation.

The spring that is correct for that side of a rotor will lock up in the
groove when the rounded end drops into a shallow hole. Check all of the springs
this way. The springs that locked up are for this side (front or rear) of
any rotor. So drop the springs into two piles. A front pile and a rear pile.


The front side springs for the side to the front pulley. The rear side
springs to the flywheel side of each rotor.

The stiffer springs are only slightly stiffer than stock and only make a
big drag difference when used with competition scrapers that are cut at a
steeper angle for higher unit pressure.  The turbo dyno racers use two stock
springs in each groove.

Lynn E. Hanover