OK, you asked for it!
First photo is my redesigned top-center mount. I extended the old mount up 1" to allow
clearance over the renesis. The bottom 4 bolts carry through the windshield strut mounting
plate; top 3 just bolt to the firewall / channel. The holes in the channel sides are for
rivets. It's a zenith, you can't assemble any part of it w/o rivets.
Kenny
Nice work Kenny.
Paul Lamar
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Other end of the arm mounts to the center section- again, I had to elevate it some to clear the motor. This bolts to 3 locations, 2 are the former intake manifold mount and one on the other end (next photo)
Top of my center section where the mount point bolts.
Arm installed, looking straight down the shaft. Notice how little clearance there is between the top of the engine & cowl.
Here you can see the very tight clearance between the arm & top of the front section:
Bottom side:
Two problems with these mounting brackets: 1. They interfere with the bungee when the post is at rest (fully extended) you can see in this photo where the bungee is touching the top of the bracket. It's not pinched or anything, but it would rub when taxiing. 2. The brackets obstruct the slots for the nose gear control rods. Two rods connect the nose gear to the rudder pedals, since the gear goes up & down slots are required for firewall penetration. The brackets overlap the slots a good 3". I simply slotted the brackets to match- they greatly stiffened up the firewall around the slots. (I couldn't move the brackets up any higher to clear the slots due to the bungee interference and interference with the 'hat' reinforcement on the channel)
To solve the bungee-clearance issue I'm considering bending a radius into the top of the bracket in that angled plane, just large enough to remove the interference.
I used the bracket mounting bolts to hold my steering rod boots (behind rudder pedals):
I'm chopping up a Ford tractor intake manifold to see if I can use the parts. The runners are 17" by 1.25" ID, with forged injector bosses. They fit under the cowl. The manifold orifices are bigger than the engine inlets, and aren't the correct shape- still tossing ideas around on how to make them match. I cut a flange out of 1/8" Al by hand, I'll have the runners welded to it.
Once I've got the runners settled I'll install the radiator & oil cooler, then start running lines.
--Kenny A.
On Jan 26, 2010, at 12:02 PM, Rotary Engine wrote:
What is the status of the Zenair 801's in the works?
How are you doing guys.
Paul Lamar
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