Here are a few photos of the air scoop, which is still in progress. The
side shot shows the exhaust outlet and the inner part of the scoop.
There are some aluminum panel pieces which complete the outter part of
the scoop, they are not installed in this photo.

There is a shot or two from the rear showing the outlet of the heat
exchangers. On the left is the oil cooler, and the griffin radiator is
on the right. I intend to put a large cowl flap there, hinged at the
bottom and operated with a linear actuator.

Looking at the interior of the scoop from the front, you can see that I
have to do some streamlining to smooth the flow inside the scoop. I
don't think that will be too problematic.

Brian Trubee

I would forget the cowl flap. It could easily hurt rather
than help. Fly it with out it for now.

When you have the scoop off please take a few more picture
from a 3/4 view. I cannot see that much straight on.

I suspect you will need a boundary layer bleed like a P-51
but maybe not. Build yourself a water manometer and check
the pressure above the rad when you are running it up
on the ground with the tail anchored.

Paul Lamar

It's a wide oval, around 60 square inches in frontal area, I think.

I've got a section of 1 1/4 flexible aluminum hose inside the suction
section of coolant hose to keep it from collapsing.  I'll take your
advise on insulating the two coolant hoses from each other.

Brian Trubee

Looks like it will work fine Brian. You never know however :)

Paul Lamar

An alternative to your aluminum hose to prevent suction hose
collapse is to insert a steel wire coil into the hose. The
wound coils are spaced 1/2 to 1 inch apart.  This has
been common practice in the auto industry for years.

Joel

Yes, I looked for an anti-collapse spring but could not find one. If you know of a source, I'd like to have it.

Brian Trubee

McMaster has .020 dia. 304 SS wire. Wind it around a 1 inch dowel or what ever
size springs back to the right over all spring dia.

Paul Lamar

The wire coils in automotive hoses are generally made with 16-18 gauge (0.050-0.062 inch) steel wire which appears to be galvanized.  I see McMasters lists a 302/304 stainless wire which has a spring temper.  This additional cold worked wire might improve the coil collapse resistance in the suction hose.  After forming your coil, it should be stress relieved at ~ 500 degrees F for a half hour or so in the Wife's oven.

Fortunately, there is a Custom Spring Shop in the area where I can usually find a ready made spring to meet my requirements.  I found this reference on line which should tell you everything you ever wanted to know on How to Make Springs.

http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/matls.html

Joel