Subject: Zenith 801 rotary builders
From: Rotary Engine
Date: 3/29/2010, 12:22 PM
To: AAA Put this in the To box



Paul,
I'm a newbie on the list, and gathering info and resources for the
installation of a 13b on my Zenith 801. I have read the TC rotary conversion
guide and still have a lot to learn regarding specifics for my application.
I would love to get in touch with Kenny A. and any others regarding
recommendations for cooling, induction and exhaust setups for the 801.

Also, my engine was newly Ohauled per TC's recommended proceedures, but I'm
wondering now about changing to peripheral ports. Is it really free
power (aside from more fuel required), or are there reliability/durability
issues that I should also consider before doing it?

I plan to use the
airplane in remote areas (ie: Alaska,) so reliability is going to be
important. Also, are there any special considerations for the rotary in
going between Arctic and tropical types of environments , especially
regarding the cooling system. Cabin heating solutions. Thanks for all the
great info I've picked up so far on this list.
Nate Hinton

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No question is too elementary. I started this free newsletter so people
could share their problems. Sometimes a specific problem or solution on one
type of airplane has applications on other types of airplanes.

Don't be shy. Nobody is going to shoot you down or flame you. I see to it.

A p-port does not make the engine less reliable. The p-port is located
in a cool part of the engine nor does it burn more gas per HP generated.
The 250 HP is a big plus as it will get you out of a short strip much
much better and have more HP at altitude to climb over mountains.

I was eating dinner in Valdez one time with some friends from
Anchorage. We had a full load in the rental Piper Warrior and
the fog starting rolling in up the fjord. Normally I would take
the pass in Whittier and fly down the Turnagain Arm. Our only option
left was to go over the 12,000 foot mountain tops west of Valdez.
The Piper engine  maxed out but we made it of course or I would
not be telling this story :)

A far more severe environment for the apex seals is the exhaust p-port
on the 13B. In that case you have thousand degree gases shooting out
a narrow slot when the exhaust port first opens. Apex seal temperature
is a big issue on wear. If anything a p-port intake tends to cool
the apex seal.

I lived up in Kirkland Lake for a couple of years in Northern Ontario.
From there all streams flowed North to the Arctic Ocean.
Temperatures got down to minus 40 F in the winter. Metal car door handles would
snap off in a gloved hand. It was impossible to start an engine that
was cold soaked with out a block and sometimes a oil pan heater. IMHO I think the
biggest challenge in the arctic is maintaining the exact antifreeze mixture
ratio so one is sure the engine coolant will not freeze. I highly recommend
using a cowl flap so the air flowing through the cooling system can be shut
off completely if necessary. You may want to tape over the intakes
as well. The water cooled engine is a plus because the cabin heater
can be made very effective.


Paul Lamar
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